Vogue Paris February 2003: La joueuse... Aux jambes nues
By Dara Block
I don't know about you, but I always find it fascinating to look back at Carine Roitfeld's history as a stylist and image maker, especially those years in which she was editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris. Since it is February 2013, I thought it would be appropriate to flashback 10 years ago to February 2003 and a provocative editorial she styled that month, entitled "La joueuse...aux jambes nues." For those of you who do not speak French, the title simply translates as "The player… with bare legs." With a title like that you know the editorial is going to be ultra sexy and chic! Let's take an in-depth look inside the pages.
The editorial was photographed by Mario Testino and features some of spring's hottest looks from 2003. What I find so brilliant about this editorial is that Carine Roitfeld incorporates much of herself into the styling. For Carine Roitfeld, her Russian origins have always been a major source of style inspiration and in this layout you certainly see all that depicted. Louise, the model featured, has a very Carine Roitfeld sensibility mixed in with a Dostoyevsky quality, perhaps like a female heroine in one of his novels. Dostoyevsky happens to be one of Carine Roitfeld's favorite writers… so it's no surprise that she waned to include a subtle Russian literary reference. Just by looking at her, you can tell that Louise embodies a very sexy, strong, yet mysterious way about her... qualities you would definitely find in a female character in a Dostoyevsky novel. I totally admire how Carine Roitfeld blended her Russian heritage and elements of a Dostoyevsky heroine to showcase these cutting-edge spring 2003 looks.
With all that analysis, let's get back to the fashion.... I love the first look featured. Louise looks so chic in her Salvatore Ferragamo black trench coat. The messy hair and smoky eyes work so well together. I definitely see how Carine Roitfeld used herself as inspiration... this look is so her!
I also love the styling of this Rick Owens dress with that sequined Anna Molinari slip-dress placed over... it's an unlikely pairing, but somehow it works in such a mysteriously glam way. Let's also not forget that pose she is giving to the camera. Only Mario Testino could capture such an incognito-chic moment like that.
Another standout look from the editorial is this soft lavender Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent dress as seen on Louise. The layering and ruffles on this dress are superb. On a side note, this was one of Tom Ford's most memorable YSL collections, so many magazines featured this dress, but I always thought Carine Roitfeld styled it best. She definitely knows how to work and style a Tom Ford creation like no other.... love it when these two collaborate as designer and stylist, such a dynamic bond and style connection they share and this image beautifully shows that!
The next look featured is a bit risqué, but isn't that why we love Vogue Paris? Louise is seen in an open blouse and fur coat placed over her shoulders. She not only looks confident, but also a bit vulnerable, as well.... love how this image conveys both qualities. You can definitely see that quintessential Carine Roitfeld attitude and style with this photo. Also, in case you cannot tell Louise has purple painted nipples. Yes, only in Vogue Paris can you get away with this racy look, but the idea actually came from Tom Ford! He featured purple painted nipples in his Yves Saint Laurent show that spring season, so it is obvious where Carine Roitfeld took her inspiration.... just leave it to Carine Roitfeld to add something cheeky to catch your attention.
I can't help but also love this brown Prada silk coat featured on Louise.... the silhouette is perfection! It's not just the jacket, but also her body composition. I totally admire her stance and the way it contrasts with that lavender background. That is actually another hidden Tom Ford influence. His runway set for YSL that season was also lavender. It is quite interesting how Carine Roitfeld even took inspiration from the setting. There are so many tiny details with this layout that it make it so visually stimulating.... I guess inspiration really is everywhere!
The next look probably has to be my favorite look from the editorial.... who could ever forget this silk kimono bathrobe from Tom Ford's Gucci spring/summer 2003 collection? This was such an iconic season that I still think it about to this day. I so love how cutting-edge and glamourous she looks with her messy hair and purple eyeshadow. That kimono is the perfect complement and I so appreciate the humor and wit of that flower placed over her breast.... très chic!
Personally, I love the way the editorial ends. Louise looks very alluring in her Valentino sheer black dress. The body language and look in her eyes completely oozes glamour and sex appeal... what Carine Roitfeld does best.
As we can see, it's always a revelation to look back on Carine Roitfeld's days at Vogue Paris. Interesting how with time her editorials have not aged at all... they still look just as fashion forward as they did 10 years ago... I am not sure how she does it, but it certainly is very inspiring! Spring/Summer 2003 will never be forgotten and this editorial proves it, brava Carine!
More from Vogue Paris February 2003
Vogue Paris February 2003: Carine. Emmanuelle. Anastasia. Marie-Amélie.
By Kellina de Boer
Vogue Paris February 2003: Gang Lang
By Kellina de Boer
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