Tom Pecheux, creative director for makeup’s most popular brand, Esteé Lauder, is the perfect example of how discovering your passion will lead toward your true greatness. This international superstar of makeup is known for his sophisticated take on Parisian glamour. His philosophy is that makeup should enhance natural beauty, not transform it.
Before the glamour, Pecheux grew up on a farm in Burgundy, France, with his heart set on becoming a pastry chef. In 1984 at 18 he made his way to Paris to make his baking dream a reality, however the universe would have a far greater plan for him. He discovered the alluring appeal of Paris’ nightlife and was immediately seduced by its blend of music, fashion, and underground culture. On most nights he could be found at Le Palace, the Parisian equivalent to Studio 54, and it was here that he met someone that would change his life forever — a makeup artist. Pecheux shares, "There was a little bell in my head and it went, ding, ding, ding. I didn't even know makeup artistry could be a job." Following his inner guide, he retired his toque, began playing with makeup, and registered for classes at Christian Chauveau l’École Technique Privée de Maquillage Artistique to train as a makeup artist.
Early on in his studies, Pecheux realized that in order to be successful you have to create your own opportunities. "I had no network in fashion. No one opened the door for me. I had to open it for myself," he remembers. So after his schooling he pushed himself to build a solid portfolio. His hard work paid off — he became an assistant to the legendary makeup artist Linda Cantello. Even with that success there were some moments of self-doubt. As Pecheux put it: "When I was 27, I thought, if I can't make it big by my thirties, I'm going to give up."
The turning point came just in time when he hooked up with newcomers Carine Roitfeld and Mario Testino. The trio landed work on a Stella Tennant shoot for German Marie Claire with Pecheux responsible for makeup, Rotfield as the stylist, and Testino as the photographer. "It was a disaster!" he recalls. But the three learned quickly and went on to collaborate for years creating landmark advertising campaigns, their most famous collaboration being Tom Ford’s iconic campaign during his Gucci tenure. At the time Ford was a complete unknown but with the trio’s magic touch a once drab house became fashion’s sexiest statement maker.
Roitfeld and Pecheux share a unique and uncompromising dedication to following their vision. Without a doubt this is why they’ve remained such loyal and supportive friends. You can see Carine’s love for his creativity and special talent by looking at past issues of Vogue Paris — his imprint is all over the magazine.
The fashion and beauty industry also took notice of Pecheux’s French sensibilities. Fashion A-listers such as Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Givenchy, Balmain, Max Mara, and Jean Paul Gaultier have all been touched by his expertise. He has also created flawless looks for the finest photographers in the business, including Patrick Demarchelier, Craig McDean, Peter Lindbergh, Inez Van Lamsweerde, and Vinoodh Matadin. With a rock solid CV, the corporate offers started rolling in. He joined Shiseido as its creative director in 1999 and was responsible for transforming the brand into a modern beauty empire. First up was the creation of the brand’s makeup line Shiseido The Makeup. Pecheux’s selection of new colors, textures, and packaging made it an instant international success. A few years later in 2001 he devised a new approach to the traditional makeover, Shiseido’s Beauty Navigator, an online interactive simulator through which the user can virtually experiment with various products from the collection.
Today Pecheux is responsible for the artistic direction of Esteé Lauder bringing new energy, style, and a fashion edge to the 67 year old brand. In fact, Pecheux was guided to Esteé Lauder through a stellar recommendation from long-time friend Mario Testino who suggested that he was the ideal beauty influencer to rejuvenate the brand. Wanting to give the brand a catwalk edge, Pecheux used his backstage credentials to bring Esteé Lauder into the fashion world. Derek Lam’s Fall 2010 runway show marked EL’s first fashion week collaboration. “We're doing Derek Lam again for Spring, and we may do other shows, too," Pecheux revealed, "but we're never going to become a show machine. I want fashion to become part of Lauder's image, but it's too chic to be just fashion. Fashion doesn't last; it's in and out. Estée Lauder is much bigger than that."
Tom Pecheux continues to blaze his own path and set the standard for beauty. From pastry chef to world renowned makeup artist, his story is proof that the universe has a plan far greater than we do.
Carine Roitfeld and Tom Pecheux photos via Condé Nast, refinery29.com, keepitchic.com, telegraph.co.uk, and purple.fr.
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