Vogue Paris December 2005/January 2006: Kate Moss

I am excited to feature the latest Vogue Paris review by our stellar contributing editor Dara Block in which she looks at the December 2005/January 2006 issue for which Carine Roitfeld chose the iconic Kate Moss as guest editor. I hope you will enjoying browsing this special issue with Dara as your guide.

What is it about Kate Moss that keeps everyone so intrigued? She really is the ultimate supermodel. Or perhaps, better yet, an icon of our generation. No one is more elusive or harder to define. I think that is exactly why Carine Roitfeld and the Vogue Paris team chose her as the 2006 guest editor for the magazine. In this issue, Kate Moss uses her guest editing expertise in a series of couture based stories that label her as the scandaleuse beauté, or scandalous beauty. There are actually four different covers to this issue, all inspired by Jean Cocteau's 1946 film entitled La belle et la bête (Beauty and the Beast). Moss is photographed by Craig McDean wearing a series of looks including a Valentino couture gown, a Giorgio Armani Privé dress, a Dior Homme embellished jacket with skinny jeans, and finally a Chanel couture cape.... which happens to be the issue I own. While each cover features different outfits, all of the covers are shot in black and white and very much maintain the look of the film... it really is quite difficult to pick a favorite cover because they are all so unique and beautiful in their own ways.

The issue starts with an editor's note and photo from Carine Roitfeld... this is truly a quintessential Carine Roitfeld moment. Her hair looks very messy chic and I so love the way she shows her love of Kate Moss with that shirt. Notice the emblem on her chest? When I start to think about it, Kate and Carine share very similar style aesthetics. They are both such experts in the subtle art of undone glamour. I guess you could say they are both about setting trends and not following them.

As you turn the page, the magazine flashes back to Carine Roitfeld's first issue as editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris. We get to see that image of Kate Moss from February 2001 brilliantly photographed by Mario Testino and styled by Carine. I so love how Kate embodies Carine in this pic... no wonder this photo is so iconic. I will never forget this issue and I am so glad Vogue Paris took a moment to pay respect to such an influential issue.

Next comes a very clever part of the magazine entitled "Snapchic" which features paparazzi style shots of Kate Moss in some of her most cutting edge street looks. Vogue Paris winningly tries to emulate some of Kate's greatest outfits through Polaroid snapshots! Some of Kate's must haves in her wardrobe include a fur jacket, a leopard coat, flats, skinny jeans, high heels (preferably, Yves Saint Laurent or Alexander McQueen) and of course, let's not forget diamonds... Kate likes her bling from Dior.

Following "Snapchic" comes a montage of photos about Kate's personal style. This section features clothing items by some of her favorite designers: John Galliano, the late Alexander McQueen, Christopher Bailey, and Vivienne Westwood. I love that Kate stays true to her British roots... she really is the ultimate London girl. It is very clear that these particular designers have influenced her style in many ways.






Next up, is "Le kit de Kate" — an editorial which features supermodel Mona Johannesson modeling the type of jewelry that Kate Moss likes to wear. The layout features actual photos of Kate in the corner wearing a similar style of jewelry, I love how the editorial links the connection between the two images. Such as this shot with Mona Johnanesson wearing a simple diamond necklace from Van Cleef and Arpels, another of Kate's favorites.

After Kate's jewelry comes "Extérieur Nuit" which features Mona Johannesson, yet again, in different makeup looks inspired by Kate Moss. The editorial is beautifully photographed by John Akehurst. Mona Johannesson looks so much like Kate Moss in that makeup, especially, her lips and her eyes. It is quite uncanny....

Before Kate's editorial comes a personal photo and thank you note written by Moss to Vogue Paris. The photo was actually taken after leaving rehab in Arizona... yes, Kate was having some personal problems with drugs around this time in her life, but she chose to serve as guest editor regardless. I love the way her hair is flying in the wind, and how her hand is placed on her sunglasses, and of course that shot of the Grand Canyon in the background. It's really the perfect preface to her fabulous editorial.

Finally, we come to her cover editorial entitled "Ultimate Kate," which was photographed by Craig McDean and styled by Carine Roitfeld. The look is very much inspired by La belle et la bête and features Kate looking so glamorous in black and white. The editorial also displays subtle handwriting written over the pics... so radiant yet mysterious at the same time.

After Kate's portfolio comes an article entitled "Million Dollar Baby," written by Sheryl Garratt, who was once editor-in-chief of The Face. Garratt looks back on Moss' life, her career, and her rise to fashion icon status. The article also features photography from people like Mario Testino and Corrine Day. Kate even shares some of her own personal pics in this section.

Next, we see a portfolio homage to Kate Moss, in which major photographers dedicate a photo and a quote about Moss and how she has inspired them. Some of the photographers include Terry Richardson, Bruce Weber, Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Peter Lindbergh, and Patrick Demarchelier, just to name a few of a very long list. On a side note, the magazine switched things up a little bit with this editorial. Normally we would see the guest editor talk about all the people that have inspired her but the magazine went in the opposite direction and asked the photographers to discuss in detail the impact that Kate Moss has had in the fashion world. That's what I love about Vogue Paris... always thinking differently!

After the homage comes a very unique editorial entitled "90" which was photographed by Mario Testino and styled Carine Roitfeld. The layout features some of Kate Moss' chicest runway looks from the 90s... she had so many unforgettable moments during that era like this tiny Chanel bikini from 1993. Carine Roitfeld really captured that "Kate essence" in this editorial... such a unique layout that reminds us of why we love Kate so much!

Overall, I must say that I was really pleased with seeing Kate Moss as guest editor... after all, she is the most controversial, fascinating, and everlasting model of our era. In many ways, she is like a human canvas in that every designer, fashion photographer, and artist all want to work with her! I think Vogue Paris really captured all sides of her personality in this issue... very rarely do we see supermodels who can be both ordinary, yet captivating at the same time... she personifies more than just fashion and her appeal is quite universal... how does she do it?

I think Carine Roitfeld summed it up best as to why we all love Kate Moss:

"She's my idol, everyone wants to be like her, you know? Even if you don't like a look on the catwalk, when you see it on her, you want it. She's magic because she has a way to transform things. She's not too slick, she seems clever, and she has the je ne sais quoi of Marilyn Monroe... and for us in France, even though she's English, she's the one."

Leave it to Carine Roitfeld to perfectly state why we all are so mesmerized by the one and only Kate Moss... I couldn't agree more!

Vogue Paris editorial images © 2005 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Vogue Paris December 2004/January 2005: Sofia Coppola

I am delighted to share with you the latest Vogue Paris review by contributing editor Dara Block in which she explores the December 2004/January 2005 issue for which Carine Roitfeld chose Sofia Coppola as guest editor. I love Sofia's style and Dara's review, I hope you will enjoy reading it, too.

I think if I had to pick a favorite guest editor of Vogue Paris I would have to say Sofia Coppola. I don’t really like to pick favorites with these issues, but there was something so personal and unique about her role as guest editor. Sofia grew up reading Vogue Paris and the magazine remains a constant source of inspiration in her life to this day. Sofia Coppola definitely has the style, the sophistication, and most importantly the incredible eye, she was clearly the perfect choice to guest edit the magazine — almost like a match made in Vogue Paris heaven!

First of all, let’s just talk about the amazing cover! I remember when I first saw this cover I could not take my eyes off of it. The black and white photo was shot by Mario Testino and styled by Carine Roitfeld. I have always felt that Roitfeld and Testino were such a dynamic duo… it's all about artistic collaboration between the two and I love how their styles blend so perfectly together. What is so interesting about Roitfeld and Testino is that they completely understand the power of an iconic image. This cover is quintessential Sofia Coppola. She looks so stunning in that Marc Jacobs dress and I think what I love most is the expression on her face. She appears a little mysterious yet completely chic with those shy eyes smiling back at you. I knew right away from that look in her eyes that this was going to be a memorable issue.

As you open the magazine, you get to peek behind the scenes as Sofia Coppola puts together her issue of Vogue Paris, something you rarely see in the guest editor issues. Notice how Sofia styles her hair like Carine Roitfeld. I love how comfortable she felt in this role, she looks quite natural seated at Carine's desk. I truly believe that if Sofia Coppola had not chosen to become a filmmaker she could easily be an editor of a fashion magazine.

The first part of the magazine is entitled "Les choix de Sofia" and features some of Sofia Coppola’s favorite things for spring 2005. Her favorites include an Yves Saint Laurent caftan, a satin Prada handbag, a 6.15-carat Harry Winston diamond heart pendant, French macarons, and of course an incredibly chic selection of Marc Jacobs shoes… Sofia’s signature!

Personally, I love how quirky and girlie this part of the magazine is… it almost feels like a scene from her film, Marie Antoinette. Perhaps it has something to do with the way she styles and photographs the shoes, diamonds, and macarons; Marie Antoinette features so many moments similar to this. If you take a closer look at these pictures you might see how she could have used this collage as inspiration for her movie.

After Sofia’s spring must-haves comes a little Polaroid bonus section called "Bar Select" which features Sofia, Mademoiselle Agnès, Carine Roitfeld, and her daughter Julia, all modeling various form fitting jackets which seems to be a staple look in Sofia’s closet… I can totally see why, so chic!

Next comes "Les Bibles de Sofia" in which Sofia Coppola shares with readers some of her favorite artists and photographers that have influenced her personal and filmmaking style. She references photographer Helmut Newton and artists Richard Prince and Elizabeth Peyton, just to name a few. I love that she finds inspiration from all types of visual mediums. I don't know why, but I feel that whenever I watch her films I always want to know more about what her main inspirations were for certain scenes... If you are interested in her visual and creative style like me then this section is for you!

Shortly after, we get to see her portfolio entitled "Grande Personne." This editorial features gorgeous photos taken of Sofia Coppola by photographer David Sims. She looks very much like the subject of a Renaissance painting with her semi-nude look and those long hair extensions. I have always admired the look and style of Sofia Coppola’s hair whether it is long or short. Her hair always blends perfectly to the outfit she is wearing!

Following this layout comes "Snap-shots Personnels" which happens to be my favorite part of the issue. This section is truly classic Sofia Coppola. The reader gets to see the secret world of Sofia Coppola captured in pictures and collage. We first look at the creative influence her family and friends have had on her life: her father, Francis Ford Coppola; her mother, Eleanor; and her brother, Roman. Sofia comes from such a cultured and artistic family, it is really no surprise where she gets her talent from...

After, we get to see even more stylish moments from her life. Sofia proudly plays the role of model and we see her pose in her very own classic Dior homme suit which appears to be one of her all time favorite looks. I can see why!

Next, we see her posing in her shoes at the famed Château Marmont in Los Angeles, her hotel of choice and the inspiration for her most recent film, Somewhere.

We also get to see a montage of the women that have influenced her personal style. Some of her fashion icons include Lauren Hutton, Diana Vreeland, and Angelica Huston. I love that Sofia chose women with such distinct senses of style.

Last but not least, Sofia concludes this section with a photo take of her and her best friend and fashion designer Marc Jacobs. I have always loved this photo of the two in bed together, I think they will always be fashion soul mates.

Next comes some sexy shots of Sofia Coppola, photographed by Mario Testino and styled by Carine Roitfeld…. I love that this powerhouse duo brought out the hidden sexy side of her...

Following this editorial comes "Professeur de Désir," a very candid interview through email exchanges between Sofia Coppola and her iconic father, Francis, in which she receives advice on filmmaking. I think it is obvious what an impact her father has had upon her as writer and as a director.

The last editorial entitled "Crinière Wet Look" features Sofia Coppola in a very bow wow wow, soft punk inspired look captured by photographer Craig McDean. I can’t help but also think of Siouxsie Sioux from Siouxsie and the Banshees in this layout. I always love the way Sofia incorporates music in her films and also the way it influences her personal style. She really captures a very cool 80s punk-glam theme in this part of the issue.

The issue ends with an interesting section called "Box-Office." Sofia Coppola asked some of her famous friends like Faye Dunaway, Quentin Tarantino, and Pedro Almodóvar to list and analyze their five favorite films. I always find it inspiring when artists and creative types share the films that have influenced them the most. I think that is what also sets Vogue Paris apart from many other fashion magazines — they understand that style is not only about fashion but film as well.

Overall, I think it is safe to say that Sofia Coppola really brought so much style and originality to the pages of Vogue Paris. I think what I admire most about her role as guest editor is that she brilliantly managed to combine film, fashion, and music into one in this magazine. Her knowledge of style is quite incredible and I love that her issue feels almost as personal as one of her films. There is something very in-depth and intimate about the way Sofia shares her interests... it almost feels like I am having a personal discussion with her about all the things that have inspired her. I think this issue shows that she is not just a style icon but a tastemaker as well. Carine Roitfeld summed it up best in 2005 when asked what it was like to work with Sofia Coppola for the December/January issue: “She could replace me tomorrow. She’s got the right eye. She’s energetic, she’s gifted, and she’s got taste.” Need I say more…

Vogue Paris editorial images © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.
Carine Roitfeld and Sofia Coppola photographs courtesy of Getty Images and Abaca Press

Vogue Paris December 2003/January 2004: Catherine Deneuve

I am absolutely thrilled to share with you today's guest post — a dazzling review by Dara Block from Sisters in Black Frocks in which she analyzes the December 2003/January 2004 issue of Vogue Paris featuring Catherine Deneuve as guest editor. Carine Roitfeld excelled at selecting intriguing guest editors for her special December/January issues and Deneuve was her iconic first choice. The inspired issue captures an intimate glimpse of the French legend's life commencing with the seductive cover shot by Mario Testino and concluding with the charming likeness by Sempé. Dara's review makes me feel nearly as if I am looking at the issue myself, I hope you will enjoy her lively and thorough analysis as much as I do.

If I had to decide what I love most about the magazine Vogue Paris I would have to say the December/January guest editor issue. I bought my first copy in 2005, and from that year on it has become an annual tradition. If there was one issue I really regret not purchasing at the time of publication it would have to be the Catherine Deneuve issue from 2004. I remember looking through it, but for some reason I decided not to buy it... what a terrible mistake. Years later after searching on eBay, I was finally able to get my hands on it and what an issue it is! Now with Carine Roitfeld departing Vogue Paris I am really starting to appreciate the beauty of these special collector issues. Catherine Deneuve was actually the first guest editor for the magazine... I think Carine made a perfect choice!

The magazine is separated into five sections. The first, Deneuve à la mode, features images and analysis of iconic moments from her films such as Repulsion (1965), Belle de jour (1966), La chamade (1968), Le sauvage (1975), and The Hunger (1983), to name a few. These film stills clearly illustrate her impact on French cinema through her performances and her sense of style. She definitely knows how to act for the camera. If you are a fan of Deneuve's fashion on screen this section is for you.

The second section entitled Mon blond discusses Catherine Deneuve's iconic blonde hair color. Yes, her hair color. It seems that women continue to be inspired by her signature blonde locks. This part of the magazine even offers advice from hairstylists and professionals on how to achieve that perfect shade of blonde... just like Deneuve herself.

Part three, Deneuve: The Other Blonde of Cinema: A Portrait, is my favorite part of the issue. It features gorgeous photos of Deneuve taken by photographer Mario Testino and a collage of her favorite looks from various Vogue layouts throughout her career. She really is quite astonishing in front of the camera, as both a model and an actress she can take on any persona. I feel so proud to say that I actually own the Lanvin dress that Catherine Deneuve herself is wearing in this montage.

The fourth part of the issue is entitled intimately Deneuve: The Star's Portfolio and collects the things that have inspired her throughout her life, ranging from mementos such as a letter written to her from photographer Bruce Weber, a photo taken of her by Richard Avedon, a cute drawing made by fashion designer and dear friend Yves Saint Laurent, to even the beauty products that she keeps in her bathroom (and refrigerator!) in Paris. It is very cool to discover these small details... that's what I love so much about Vogue Paris... it gets so personal and even a little quirky!

Following the look at her influences is a little bonus section with photos taken of Deneuve in 2003 by Mario Sorrenti. She looks so stunning in these photos with that natural green background. She proves that women can be beautiful at any age.

The final part of the issue is entitled Sempé: The Graphic Artist Moves Into Deneuve; His Neighbor. It is a stylish cartoon about Deneuve in his adorable style that you may recognize from covers of the New Yorker. Clearly she is comfortable making fun of herself and her iconic persona... I love that Catherine Deneuve doesn't take herself too seriously.

I would have to say that the Catherine Deneuve Vogue Paris issue is definitely one of the most intriguing special guest editor issues. It is on par with the issues created by Sofia Coppola and Charlotte Gainsbourg, two of my past favorite guest editors. This issue is more like a scrapbook of memories than a magazine. You get to flash back on Deneuve's career and see her influence on film and fashion today. There is something so personal and unique about this issue, it's almost as if you are having a conversation with Catherine Deneuve about her life and all the things that have inspired her artistically. Yes, this December/January issue has lots of style, but there is also something educational about it, too. I learned about the films she likes, the actors and the musicians she admires, and even more obscure details like her favorite nail polish brand or what she likes to keep in her refrigerator. For sure, I got to see a different side of Catherine Deneuve that I typically do not see in publications. I am quite proud to add this issue to my collection of inspirational Vogue Paris magazines. I guess if I could use one word to sum up this issue it would have to be — Deneuvely!

Vogue Paris editorial images © 2003 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.