The Essence Of The Givenchy Woman

The Essence Of The Givenchy Woman
By Kate Ringo Suzuki

In her most recent collaboration with the house of Givenchy, Carine Roitfeld proves once again that high fashion can have a soul. Her styling for Givenchy’s campaign for Spring/Summer 2013 has beautifully captured the essence of creative director Riccardo Tisci’s vision of the Givenchy woman: “It’s about real people, only taking the best of their personalities, with no effort.” says Tisci.

The collection is undeniably architectural and menswear influenced, evidenced by tuxedo pants and sturdy jackets rendered in firm wool that stand at attention in straight lines. But do not be fooled — this is not your mother’s austere armor. There is cleverness and brilliance to what Tisci has done. Sturdy swaths of silk satin support large-scale details, like a larger-than-life side ruffle that reveals an unexpected flash of flesh on the side of a woman, her arm, her breast — not too much, not too little, just enough flirt to retain her mystery and power. High necklines punctuated with shiny bold chokers and asymmetry are the norm.

La Roitfeld’s styling is right on the money. Marina Abramovic, Kate Moss, and Mariacarla Boscono model the women’s collection wearing almost bare faces and relaxed undone hair. The boldness of the clothing serves as a frame to highlight the natural beauty of these women. Slicked back hair and red lips would have looked aged and dated. Under Carine’s watchful eye, the women wear the dresses and not the other way around. One photograph features Mariacarla Boscono holding her baby daughter, Mariąlucas; the sexiest grandmother in the world definitely still has baby on the brain.

Further congratulations should be extended to the brilliant black and white photography of Mert & Marcus.  

Take a look at the creation of Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2013 campaign

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Givenchy images © 2013 Givenchy.

Mode/Sport: Vogue Paris November 2004

Mode/Sport: Vogue Paris November 2004
By Dara Block

I don't know about you, but I am still in denial that Carine Roitfeld has even left Vogue Paris. For some odd reason, every month, when I skim through the pages of Vogue Paris magazine I still look for one of Carine Roitfeld's amazingly chic, yet highly personal, editor's notes. Yes, I know she is now on to new and other interesting projects like CR Fashion Book, but I like to think that she is still subconsciously contributing to the magazine. Recently, I started to think about some of her most memorable and iconic issues of Vogue Paris. Naturally, there are so many to discuss, but if there was one that has left a huge impact on my personal style it would have to be the November 2004 issue dedicated to sportswear. What I appreciate so much about this particular issue was the way in which Carine Roitfeld was able to take such glamorous looks and transform them into so many athletic inspired fashion spreads. She totally brought new meaning to the term "sporty-chic." So, with all that in mind, I thought it would be appropriate to take a glimpse inside this unforgettable and groundbreaking issue!

First of all, let's just take a moment to examine this gorgeous cover. The striking image was photographed by Mario Testino and featured Kate Moss looking extra sporty-chic in a Nike sports bra and shorts mixed in with a green Gucci fur coat for some added glamour. It’s quite obvious that Carine Roitfeld styled this cover and I so love how she placed that Gucci fur over her Nike ensemble… very high fashion, but yet still very athletic-looking. Only Carine Roitfeld could style this look together so cool and nonchalantly!

Carine Roitfeld also dedicates a page in the issue to photographer Mario Testino. After all, he helped Carine out with many of the stunning athletic inspired editorials in this issue. It’s quite obvious that Mario Testino and Carine Roitfeld work so well together and I love how beautifully he executed her sportswear vision in this issue. I also think it’s quite cool how she featured a photo of Mario Testino, himself, playing tennis… if you look closely you can see him in action on the court. Those impromptu photos go so perfectly with the whole sportswear theme.

Next up is Carine Roitfeld's iconic editor's note. In it, she talks about how inspired she was by Olympic athletes, their bodies, and how they move within space. She also shared how delighted she was to have Mario Testino take part in this issue especially because he was able to turn all her athletic ideas into a reality. I so love the montage of sporty inspired images she has put together. Nobody can put together and style an editor's note quite like Carine Roitfeld.

Following the editor's note comes “Ski Fantaisies” which is a beautiful montage of ski-wear mixed in with the season's hottest winter looks. Since this issue came out in November of 2004, the timing was perfect to showcase some winter-chic inspired looks with a Carine Roitfeld sensibility. I so love how she reminisced back to some retro ski-looks, but also mixed it up with Polaroid images of the current season's winter looks by Balenciaga, Roberto Cavalli, and The Gap to display how the winter ski look can be both glamorous but yet, very easy to wear, as well!

After “Ski Fantaisies” comes “Agenda,” in which Vogue Paris takes an inside look at designer Stella McCartney's collaboration with the Adidas label. I so appreciate how the magazine showcases some sporty looks from Stella McCartney's Fall/Winter 2004 collection and relates it to her line for Adidas. There are definitely some sporty-chic connections and its quite amazing to see how sportswear has transformed into such a high-fashion concept… brilliantly conveyed!

Next comes “Flashback” which features a photograph of supermodel Veruschka taken in 1968, by Franco Rubartelli. It’s obvious what a great inspiration this winter ski photo was to Carine Roitfeld and to the Vogue Paris team for this issue. What is not to love about this image… the styling is impeccable with that turtleneck and all those extra added winter accessories. This is truly the Vogue Paris way of going skiing in 1968 and for today, as well!

Following the “Flashback” photograph comes “Mode/Sport” an astounding collaboration between Mario Testino and Carine Roitfeld showcasing how sportswear and athletic style has changed the way both men and women dress in their everyday lives. The concept is quite simple, but yet very forward-thinking in terms of style!

First comes “Hors-Piste”in which Carine Roitfeld takes various winter ski looks and translates them for the modern-day woman. One of my favorite looks featured in the editorial was this sleeping bag coat by Maison Martin Margiela. I love how cool, comfortable, and cutting edge this model looks in her coat. It is as if she just got out of bed and perhaps even wore her bed spread and just decided to go skiing. On a side note, H&M is now selling a new version of the very same Margiela sleeping bag coat. I actually just purchased it and I must say I use this Mario Testino image as my total style inspiration.

There are also some extra amazing photos in this ski editorial featuring stylish ski masks and even some other sleeping bag coat looks from designer Norma Kamali, as well.

Next comes “Classe de Neige,” which takes an in-depth look at the sporty-chic ski-look and how it has influenced ready to wear winter style throughout the years. I so love the montage of paparazzi images. The photos range from Jackie O. and Renee Zellweger to Princess Diana… showing off their best winter ski attire! With all these pics you clearly can see how ski style has inspired many fashion designers and stylists.

Following “Classe de Neige” comes “Figures Libres,” which features supermodel Kate Moss in some of the season's hottest sporty looks. This is my favorite editorial in the entire issue because all the looks featured are so effortless and easy to copy. In addition, Carine Roitfeld beautifully depicts how sporty fashion can be both stylish, but also very affordable, as well. By far, this is one of the most relatable layouts. I constantly use these images as inspiration when I go to the gym to work out!

Next comes “Fatale do Brazil” which showcases more sporty-chic looks from designers like Calvin Klein and John Galliano to the more affordable Nike label. I so love all the body motions captured in these images. It’s got a very stylish cardio-barre look, mixed in with a noir sensibility. This is certainly the way the Vogue Paris woman likes to works out!

After comes “GoldGirl.”This is a stunning editorial featuring many gold inspired looks on supermodel Hana Soukupova. It’s quite obvious that Carine Roitfeld had many inspirations for this editorial. Her influences range from Marilyn Monroe, The Bee Gees, David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust, to even the hip-hop style of Run-DMC. I think if you study the style in this layout you can totally see all that combined. Hana Soukupova looks completely elegant, but yet still rock n' roll with a touch of hip-hop. Only Carine Roitfeld could manage to blend all these elements together so elegantly!

The next brilliant editorial is entitled “Jeux Interdits” which features interesting ingenues like Joanna Preiss and Elettra Rossellini in 2004's hottest athletic-inspired ensembles. Personally, I love seeing Elettra Rossellini as David Bowie in Christian Dior. She looks very sporty-chic with a total John Galliano edge.

The last layout features model and actress Elizabeth Hurley in various black dresses by designers like Helmut Lang and Balenciaga. What I love most about these images is that Elizabeth Hurley is looking so glamorous and chic while she is working out. Only Carine Roitfeld would envision something like this. I so appreciate the humor of this editorial. Carine Roitfeld brilliantly conveys with this layout how one should always look their best even when working out on a treadmill.

As we can see, Carine Roitfeld has completely transformed the idea of sportswear with this November 2004 issue. I so appreciate all the athletic themed looks featured… Mario Testino captured Carine Roitfeld's vision so perfectly. I must admit that whenever I look through certain magazines and see their depictions of sportswear I find myself uninspired and bored, but with this particular issue you can truly see sporty individuality at its finest… so many fashion possibilities to choose from, making it a total Vogue Paris classic. Carine Roitfeld clearly shows how both men and women can be both casual-cool in their sportswear, but yet completely sophisticated at the same time.. something I don't think that many people realize can go together so easily.

Brava to Carine Roitfeld for showing Americans and the rest of the world how sporty-chic is properly done. Indeed, this is one of her most memorable issues! On that note, I think it’s time to put on my Nike bodysuit and fur coat and head to the gym, see you there!

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld: Make Love, Not War

For the November 1992 issue of French Glamour, Carine Roitfeld styled an editorial titled, "Faites l'amour pas la guerre," or in English, "Make love, not war." The spreads feature Helena Christensen and Kate Moss as well as other models that I am unable to identify, please let me know if you can help. Mario Testino shot the images in which our favorite stylist clearly displays her allegiance to military chic. I always love Carine's way with words and her opening line for the editorial is brilliant: "Imbattable sur le front de la mode :  le genre militaire. Version chic ou vraie fripe, l'uniforme a retourné sa veste : il est passé dans le camp du Flower Power." (or in English, "Unbeatable on the fashion front: the military type. A chic version true or thrifted, the uniform has turned his coat: he went into the camp of Flower Power.") My favorite detail is the inscription of "love" and "you" on the eyelids, trés chou.

Also from 1992
"Monaco" Glamour France

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French Glamour November 1992 editorial © 1992 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Vogue Paris December 2005/January 2006: Kate Moss

I am excited to feature the latest Vogue Paris review by our stellar contributing editor Dara Block in which she looks at the December 2005/January 2006 issue for which Carine Roitfeld chose the iconic Kate Moss as guest editor. I hope you will enjoying browsing this special issue with Dara as your guide.

What is it about Kate Moss that keeps everyone so intrigued? She really is the ultimate supermodel. Or perhaps, better yet, an icon of our generation. No one is more elusive or harder to define. I think that is exactly why Carine Roitfeld and the Vogue Paris team chose her as the 2006 guest editor for the magazine. In this issue, Kate Moss uses her guest editing expertise in a series of couture based stories that label her as the scandaleuse beauté, or scandalous beauty. There are actually four different covers to this issue, all inspired by Jean Cocteau's 1946 film entitled La belle et la bête (Beauty and the Beast). Moss is photographed by Craig McDean wearing a series of looks including a Valentino couture gown, a Giorgio Armani Privé dress, a Dior Homme embellished jacket with skinny jeans, and finally a Chanel couture cape.... which happens to be the issue I own. While each cover features different outfits, all of the covers are shot in black and white and very much maintain the look of the film... it really is quite difficult to pick a favorite cover because they are all so unique and beautiful in their own ways.

The issue starts with an editor's note and photo from Carine Roitfeld... this is truly a quintessential Carine Roitfeld moment. Her hair looks very messy chic and I so love the way she shows her love of Kate Moss with that shirt. Notice the emblem on her chest? When I start to think about it, Kate and Carine share very similar style aesthetics. They are both such experts in the subtle art of undone glamour. I guess you could say they are both about setting trends and not following them.

As you turn the page, the magazine flashes back to Carine Roitfeld's first issue as editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris. We get to see that image of Kate Moss from February 2001 brilliantly photographed by Mario Testino and styled by Carine. I so love how Kate embodies Carine in this pic... no wonder this photo is so iconic. I will never forget this issue and I am so glad Vogue Paris took a moment to pay respect to such an influential issue.

Next comes a very clever part of the magazine entitled "Snapchic" which features paparazzi style shots of Kate Moss in some of her most cutting edge street looks. Vogue Paris winningly tries to emulate some of Kate's greatest outfits through Polaroid snapshots! Some of Kate's must haves in her wardrobe include a fur jacket, a leopard coat, flats, skinny jeans, high heels (preferably, Yves Saint Laurent or Alexander McQueen) and of course, let's not forget diamonds... Kate likes her bling from Dior.

Following "Snapchic" comes a montage of photos about Kate's personal style. This section features clothing items by some of her favorite designers: John Galliano, the late Alexander McQueen, Christopher Bailey, and Vivienne Westwood. I love that Kate stays true to her British roots... she really is the ultimate London girl. It is very clear that these particular designers have influenced her style in many ways.






Next up, is "Le kit de Kate" — an editorial which features supermodel Mona Johannesson modeling the type of jewelry that Kate Moss likes to wear. The layout features actual photos of Kate in the corner wearing a similar style of jewelry, I love how the editorial links the connection between the two images. Such as this shot with Mona Johnanesson wearing a simple diamond necklace from Van Cleef and Arpels, another of Kate's favorites.

After Kate's jewelry comes "Extérieur Nuit" which features Mona Johannesson, yet again, in different makeup looks inspired by Kate Moss. The editorial is beautifully photographed by John Akehurst. Mona Johannesson looks so much like Kate Moss in that makeup, especially, her lips and her eyes. It is quite uncanny....

Before Kate's editorial comes a personal photo and thank you note written by Moss to Vogue Paris. The photo was actually taken after leaving rehab in Arizona... yes, Kate was having some personal problems with drugs around this time in her life, but she chose to serve as guest editor regardless. I love the way her hair is flying in the wind, and how her hand is placed on her sunglasses, and of course that shot of the Grand Canyon in the background. It's really the perfect preface to her fabulous editorial.

Finally, we come to her cover editorial entitled "Ultimate Kate," which was photographed by Craig McDean and styled by Carine Roitfeld. The look is very much inspired by La belle et la bête and features Kate looking so glamorous in black and white. The editorial also displays subtle handwriting written over the pics... so radiant yet mysterious at the same time.

After Kate's portfolio comes an article entitled "Million Dollar Baby," written by Sheryl Garratt, who was once editor-in-chief of The Face. Garratt looks back on Moss' life, her career, and her rise to fashion icon status. The article also features photography from people like Mario Testino and Corrine Day. Kate even shares some of her own personal pics in this section.

Next, we see a portfolio homage to Kate Moss, in which major photographers dedicate a photo and a quote about Moss and how she has inspired them. Some of the photographers include Terry Richardson, Bruce Weber, Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Peter Lindbergh, and Patrick Demarchelier, just to name a few of a very long list. On a side note, the magazine switched things up a little bit with this editorial. Normally we would see the guest editor talk about all the people that have inspired her but the magazine went in the opposite direction and asked the photographers to discuss in detail the impact that Kate Moss has had in the fashion world. That's what I love about Vogue Paris... always thinking differently!

After the homage comes a very unique editorial entitled "90" which was photographed by Mario Testino and styled Carine Roitfeld. The layout features some of Kate Moss' chicest runway looks from the 90s... she had so many unforgettable moments during that era like this tiny Chanel bikini from 1993. Carine Roitfeld really captured that "Kate essence" in this editorial... such a unique layout that reminds us of why we love Kate so much!

Overall, I must say that I was really pleased with seeing Kate Moss as guest editor... after all, she is the most controversial, fascinating, and everlasting model of our era. In many ways, she is like a human canvas in that every designer, fashion photographer, and artist all want to work with her! I think Vogue Paris really captured all sides of her personality in this issue... very rarely do we see supermodels who can be both ordinary, yet captivating at the same time... she personifies more than just fashion and her appeal is quite universal... how does she do it?

I think Carine Roitfeld summed it up best as to why we all love Kate Moss:

"She's my idol, everyone wants to be like her, you know? Even if you don't like a look on the catwalk, when you see it on her, you want it. She's magic because she has a way to transform things. She's not too slick, she seems clever, and she has the je ne sais quoi of Marilyn Monroe... and for us in France, even though she's English, she's the one."

Leave it to Carine Roitfeld to perfectly state why we all are so mesmerized by the one and only Kate Moss... I couldn't agree more!

Vogue Paris editorial images © 2005 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld At Kate Moss' Wedding

Of course Carine Roitfeld was among the guests for the marriage of Kate Moss and Jamie Hince this past weekend and finally we have photographic evidence. Terry Richardson snapped a series of terrific candids of the wedding party and guests, be sure to visit terrysdiary.com for more... Congratulations, Kate and Jamie!

Carine Roitfeld photograph courtesy of terrysdiary.com