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Entries in Mert & Marcus (6)

vendredi
mai082015

Carine Roitfeld For Givenchy Fall/Winter 2015

Carine Roitfeld For Givenchy: With A Little Help From My Friends
By Jessica Eritou

With the help of Carine Roitfeld, Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci released his latest campaign alongside another designer. As much as we are shocked by his choice, we are happy to see Tisci push Givenchy's envelope by featuring well-known designers of other fashion houses. Tisci brought his friend, and now star of the new campaign, Donatella Versace, designer of the label with the same name, for his Fall 2015 collection.

Carine Roitfeld styled the duo with simplistic profile head shots with the familiar black-and-white filter in typical Givenchy style. To capture Versace's delicate features and platinum blonde locks, Roitfeld poses her in front of Tisci's dark plaid ensemble, while she complements the photo as well in what appears to be a velvet vintage pattern. Although the two face opposite directions, you still feel a sense of unity in the shot, with the closeness and soft facial expressions from one another. Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott shot the intimate campaign for Givenchy.

[Editor's note: While we are on the subject of Donatella, I love these images of her fitting Carine for the short film "The Client" by Loïc Prigent and Fabien Constant. The shot of Carine and Riccardo from the film is cute as well. Be sure to read Jessica Eritou's thoughts on "The Client" if you missed it previously.]

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Givenchy ad © 2015 Givenchy. Carine Roitfeld photographs © 2011 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

mardi
janv.142014

Carine Roitfeld: The Russian Connection

Carine Roitfeld: The Russian Connection
By Bernie Rothschild

As we all know, Carine Roitfeld, a typical bourgeois Parisian woman, is proud of her Russian heritage. It comes as no surprise that her father, Jacques Roitfeld, was a Russian émigré to Paris, which was a very typical route for Russians during the Revolution of 1917. Carine celebrates her Russian roots as much as she can. She prefers a vodka shot over a glass of vintage French wine. It is even said that she speaks fluent Russian. And she loves Saint Petersburg. Her style is very Parisian, but it has some darkness and toughness in it, which is the Russian in her. Carine Roitfeld is the perfect definition of the French-Russian woman.

The connection between France and Russia is nothing new. French is the language of the nobility and was the official language of the Imperial Court of Russia which was known as the Romanov Court.  The Russian Empire was a very powerful state and once occupied nearly half of the world like the Balkans, some parts of Asia, the Middle East, and even Alaska. The German born Sophie von Anhalt-Zerbst, or historically known as Catherine the Great, ruler of Russia, was very remarkable. Catherine was a Francophile and believed that everything French was superior. Her court was modeled after that of Louis XIV, the Sun King. Catherine admired the works of many French writers and regularly corresponded with Voltaire.

Though it was Peter the Great who introduced Francophilia to Russia, it was Catherine who made it popular by the use of French influence that extended not just to the language but also to the art and the architecture. Also, the official painter to the French royal court, Élisabeth Vigée-LeBrun, was once exiled in Russia and painted the Romanovs. The Rococo structure of many Russian palaces,  especially the Peterhof Palace, was modeled after the splendid Palais de Versailles. The French and the Russians share a similar aesthetic but the Russian art is mixed with a Germanic influence that has some coldness and darkness to it.

Carine Roitfeld has tried to influence her work with her Russian descent like how the Russians admire the French. Carine was involved in the debut issue of Russian Vogue starring models Kate Moss and Amber Valletta that explored the beauty and the treasures of Russia after the dissolution of the Soviet government. Carine also dedicated the October 2006 issue of Vogue Paris to Russia, the spread titled "Tsarines" was inspired by the Russian Grand Duchess, the wealthiest women in the world during her time. The atmosphere of the photography, especially the white dresses, captures the innocent and angelic style of the daughters of the last Russian emperor Nicholas II.

The second editorial from that issue, "Poupées Russes," evokes the dark days of Russia during the communist rule. Especially with the Givenchy blouse with red embroidery which screams blood and goth. While the models look like angelic Grand Duchesses in "Tsarines," in "Poupées Russes" they look as if they're Russian spies disguised as dolls. I love how Carine "Russianizes" the atmosphere of their style.

Lastly, the editorial "Princesse Natalia" presents the model Natalia Vodianova as if she were a Russian princess especially with the Kokoshnik and a Russian babushka. I love how Carine flirts with balancing the fantasy of the modern and the historical Russian style, especially with the jewel tone colors that make Natalia look like the Russian paintings from the 18th century.

Overall, Russia is really a great country; with its rich heritage, it is truly one of the inspiring places on earth.

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2006 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

vendredi
juil.192013

Julia Restoin-Roitfeld For Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013

Julia Restoin-Roitfeld reprises her role in the Givenchy advertising campaigns for the Fall/Winter 2013 collection, this time donning their eyewear for a sexy librarian look that is at once sweet and smoldering. Julia is seen here in the "Antigona" model. Designed by Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy, the "Reality and Family" eyewear collection celebrates the value of family, with frames available in black, red, or the Givenchy logo print, Swarovski crystals optional. The black-and-white campaign images were captured by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. While we are on the subject, I admired the Givenchy eyewear campaign for their Spring/Summer 2013 collection featuring Mariacarla Boscono and Francisco Peralta, also by Mert & Marcus.

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Givenchy images © 2013 Givenchy.

mercredi
mai292013

The Roitfelds For Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013

The Roitfelds For Givenchy Fall/Winter 2013
By Bernie Rothschild

The Fall/Winter campaign of Givenchy for 2013 takes the theme of family values. Riccardo Tisci chose to put his mentor, collaborator, and muse Carine Roitfeld together with her daughter Julia Restoin-Roitfeld with photography by Mert & Marcus. The campaign also features actress Amanda Seyfried, models Mariano Ontanon and Dalianah Arekion, and Spanish actor Quim Gutiérrez. But I notice that Mariacarla Boscono, another longtime muse and personal friend of Mr. Tisci, is missing but my wild guess, she's probably going to star in the eyewear and accessories campaign. Though, I find that putting Carine Roitfeld in the campaign is unnecessary. She is pretty much involved behind the scenes. But it's probably a tribute to Riccardo and Carine's friendship. As we all know, it was her who helped Riccardo Tisci when he was just a newbie in the industry. She supported him during his first collections when everyone criticized him for his "darkness" and "gothicism." It was Carine who religiously wore his designs for every occasion such as parties and Paris Fashion Week and her Vogue Paris was the first magazine to feature the design of Riccardo Tisci on the cover (December/January 2005 Kate Moss). Even with his success, Riccardo did not forget Carine, it was him who put Carine "afloat" when she left Vogue Paris. In the fashion industry where change is constant, their dedication and loyalty towards each other is amazing. Cheers to these two fashion visionaries.

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Givenchy images © 2013 Givenchy. Carine Roitfeld and Riccardo Tisci image courtesy of purple.fr.

samedi
janv.052013

The Essence Of The Givenchy Woman

The Essence Of The Givenchy Woman
By Kate Ringo Suzuki

In her most recent collaboration with the house of Givenchy, Carine Roitfeld proves once again that high fashion can have a soul. Her styling for Givenchy’s campaign for Spring/Summer 2013 has beautifully captured the essence of creative director Riccardo Tisci’s vision of the Givenchy woman: “It’s about real people, only taking the best of their personalities, with no effort.” says Tisci.

The collection is undeniably architectural and menswear influenced, evidenced by tuxedo pants and sturdy jackets rendered in firm wool that stand at attention in straight lines. But do not be fooled — this is not your mother’s austere armor. There is cleverness and brilliance to what Tisci has done. Sturdy swaths of silk satin support large-scale details, like a larger-than-life side ruffle that reveals an unexpected flash of flesh on the side of a woman, her arm, her breast — not too much, not too little, just enough flirt to retain her mystery and power. High necklines punctuated with shiny bold chokers and asymmetry are the norm.

La Roitfeld’s styling is right on the money. Marina Abramovic, Kate Moss, and Mariacarla Boscono model the women’s collection wearing almost bare faces and relaxed undone hair. The boldness of the clothing serves as a frame to highlight the natural beauty of these women. Slicked back hair and red lips would have looked aged and dated. Under Carine’s watchful eye, the women wear the dresses and not the other way around. One photograph features Mariacarla Boscono holding her baby daughter, Mariąlucas; the sexiest grandmother in the world definitely still has baby on the brain.

Further congratulations should be extended to the brilliant black and white photography of Mert & Marcus.  

Take a look at the creation of Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2013 campaign

Shephoa, Inc.

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Givenchy images © 2013 Givenchy.