Carine Roitfeld: Evening Dare

As we anxiously await the release of CR Men's Book tomorrow, let us amuse ourselves with the editorial “Evening Dare,” a daring take on menswear by Carine Roitfeld and Mario Testino published in Vogue Hommes International in 2007. Merci mille fois to the amazing Paul Kolyer for sharing his insights as well as the images.

Carine Roitfeld: Evening Dare
By Paul Kolyer

This flashback could be called “Roitfeld/Rewind” or “I Want To Be A Male Model Styled By Carine,” either way the team of Roitfeld/Testino created another fabulous editorial for Vogue Hommes Spring/Summer 2007. Just so happens that Taschen has released Mr. Testino's new book, SIR. This volume covers thirty years and will no doubt contain many images styled by CR.

Always ahead of her time, the "gender debate" in menswear was a non-issue for Carine Roitfeld. Her styling here borrows a dress, a bag, and a turban from the Prada line for women. The Prada evening bag is soft and so in style for men now. I love how she uses the single Tiffany diamond at the throat throughout. I wonder if t-shirt sales dropped after seeing this, if you've got the body, leave the tee at home!

All of Carine's fetishes (black, Le Smoking, nipples, waist, pubic hair) are on full display in “Evening Dare.” La Roitfeld really saw the future of menswear with her take on track pants, broaches, jackets over long tunics, and sequins for men — the Fendi sequined cardigan is so sexy for evening under Le Smoking.

The modern man has so many options now and with menswear seeing global double digit growth, Carine Roitfeld may want to use her design skills for a men's collection, sure to be a sell out. And she can style the ad campaign, bien sûr !

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Vogue Hommes International cover image © 2007 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld: Vanity Fair April 2005

Taking it back to 2005… I find it impossible to believe that a decade has passed since this interview with Carine Roitfeld appeared in the April issue of Vanity Fair. In the iconic image above, close friend and collaborator, Mario Testino captures the essence of Carine, at once classic and coquettish, in a jacket by Yves Saint Laurent, a skirt by Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, and shoes by Sergio Rossi. In case you missed it the first time around, I want to share the interview with you, it is always pleasurable to learn more about the interests of our icon.

Carine Roitfeld
Photographed by Mario Testino in Paris on January 27, 2005.

Residence: Paris.

Occupation: Editor-in-chief, French Vogue.

Personal style: "French, classic, sexy… risky."

Favorite piece of clothing: A vintage Gypsy dress from Yves Saint Laurent.

Most stylish man: "My husband" [Christian "Sisley" Restoin].

Favorite up-and-coming designer: Riccardo Tisci.

Favorite piece of jewelry: A Cartier Panther bracelet from the 70s.

Favorite shoe designer: Saint Laurent. ("Very sexy high-heeled shoes with a touch of 'bizarre.'")

Favorite handbag: "The classic black Chanel."

Favorite scent: Opium pour Homme, by Yves Saint Laurent.

Favorite store: Decades in Los Angeles.

Favorite fashion trend: Summer polka dots.

Manolos or Louboutins? Manolos.

Diamonds or pearls? Diamonds.

Piercings or tattoos? None.

Favorite book: Bonjour Tristesse, by Françoise Sagan.

Favorite cause: AmfAR (The American Foundation for AIDS Research).

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Carine Roitfeld photos © 2005 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld: Stylist

In 2007, Rizzoli published a fascinating book, Stylist: The Interpreters of Fashion, which collects the work of sixteen legendary image makers as selected by Style.com, and of course Carine Roitfeld made this exclusive list. Browsing the lavish volume is a fashion education unto itself, with influential stylists such as Polly Mellen, Grace Coddington, Edward Enninful, Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, and Karl Templer sharing memorable collaborations and sources of inspiration via interviews with Sarah Mower. Among the talented photographers that collaborated on these iconic images are Cecil Beaton, Richard Avedon, Steven Meisel, Annie Leibovitz, Mario Testino, Bruce Weber, Steven Klein, and Juergen Teller. Raul Martinez provided the creative direction for Stylist and Anna Wintour penned the foreword, in which she admits that as a fashion sittings editor she was never particularly good, although she certainly recognizes and champions editors that are particularly good. Which of her most memorable works did Carine Roitfeld choose to share in Stylist: The Interpreters of Fashion? I was hoping you would ask…

"The Butcher" 
The Face, 1997
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Eva Herzigova
Photographer: Mario Testino

I love that Carine selected three images from her unforgettable editorial, "The Butcher," the work she considers her most compelling. Also notable, a print of the image above hangs in the home of art connoisseur Simon de Pury.

"Au Pérou, chez les Incas"
French Glamour, August 1993
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Helena Christensen
Photographer: Mario Testino

This is one of the most famous of the Roitfeld/Testino collaborations for French Glamour, as well as personal: the location honors the photographer's Peruvian childhood and the model wore a Peruvian sweater belonging to the stylist's father. Trop mignon, non ?

"Néo-Moderne"
French Glamour, 1994
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Nadja Auermann
Photographer: Mario Testino

This is the other most famous of the Roitfeld/Testino collaborations for French Glamour, again with a personal angle: the spread is shot in the néo-moderne apartment of Carine Roitfeld and Christian Restoin. Note also that the model lounges about wearing Gucci loafers, attracting the attention of Tom Ford and leading to one of the sexiest collaborations in fashion history.

Gucci by Tom Ford
Collection stills and ad campaign, 1995
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Photographer: Mario Testino

While Tom Ford is a talented designer and Mario Testino is an accomplished photographer, Carine Roitfeld must be credited with conducting the electricity that created the iconic Gucci look of 1995. As The New York Times observed at the time, "Imagine waking up one morning expecting Harriet Nelson to be making your breakfast and instead found Raquel Welch, circa 1968, beating the eggs."

"Corps & Lames"
Vogue Paris, February 2005
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Gemma Ward
Photographer: Mario Testino

Gemma Ward is anything but innocent in "Corps & Lames," Carine's bizarrely beautiful homage to meat… and polka dots… and sheers… oh my…

Other material that Carine chose to share were images of herself as a young girl, with her family, with her Vogue Paris staff, and of her inspiration board, as well as the portrait below captured by Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin in March 2003 for V Magazine.

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Carine Roitfeld editorial images © 2007 Rizzoli. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld: The Russian Connection

Carine Roitfeld: The Russian Connection
By Bernie Rothschild

As we all know, Carine Roitfeld, a typical bourgeois Parisian woman, is proud of her Russian heritage. It comes as no surprise that her father, Jacques Roitfeld, was a Russian émigré to Paris, which was a very typical route for Russians during the Revolution of 1917. Carine celebrates her Russian roots as much as she can. She prefers a vodka shot over a glass of vintage French wine. It is even said that she speaks fluent Russian. And she loves Saint Petersburg. Her style is very Parisian, but it has some darkness and toughness in it, which is the Russian in her. Carine Roitfeld is the perfect definition of the French-Russian woman.

The connection between France and Russia is nothing new. French is the language of the nobility and was the official language of the Imperial Court of Russia which was known as the Romanov Court.  The Russian Empire was a very powerful state and once occupied nearly half of the world like the Balkans, some parts of Asia, the Middle East, and even Alaska. The German born Sophie von Anhalt-Zerbst, or historically known as Catherine the Great, ruler of Russia, was very remarkable. Catherine was a Francophile and believed that everything French was superior. Her court was modeled after that of Louis XIV, the Sun King. Catherine admired the works of many French writers and regularly corresponded with Voltaire.

Though it was Peter the Great who introduced Francophilia to Russia, it was Catherine who made it popular by the use of French influence that extended not just to the language but also to the art and the architecture. Also, the official painter to the French royal court, Élisabeth Vigée-LeBrun, was once exiled in Russia and painted the Romanovs. The Rococo structure of many Russian palaces,  especially the Peterhof Palace, was modeled after the splendid Palais de Versailles. The French and the Russians share a similar aesthetic but the Russian art is mixed with a Germanic influence that has some coldness and darkness to it.

Carine Roitfeld has tried to influence her work with her Russian descent like how the Russians admire the French. Carine was involved in the debut issue of Russian Vogue starring models Kate Moss and Amber Valletta that explored the beauty and the treasures of Russia after the dissolution of the Soviet government. Carine also dedicated the October 2006 issue of Vogue Paris to Russia, the spread titled "Tsarines" was inspired by the Russian Grand Duchess, the wealthiest women in the world during her time. The atmosphere of the photography, especially the white dresses, captures the innocent and angelic style of the daughters of the last Russian emperor Nicholas II.

The second editorial from that issue, "Poupées Russes," evokes the dark days of Russia during the communist rule. Especially with the Givenchy blouse with red embroidery which screams blood and goth. While the models look like angelic Grand Duchesses in "Tsarines," in "Poupées Russes" they look as if they're Russian spies disguised as dolls. I love how Carine "Russianizes" the atmosphere of their style.

Lastly, the editorial "Princesse Natalia" presents the model Natalia Vodianova as if she were a Russian princess especially with the Kokoshnik and a Russian babushka. I love how Carine flirts with balancing the fantasy of the modern and the historical Russian style, especially with the jewel tone colors that make Natalia look like the Russian paintings from the 18th century.

Overall, Russia is really a great country; with its rich heritage, it is truly one of the inspiring places on earth.

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2006 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Roitfeld In De Pury Collection

Although he has recently made his home in London, Simon de Pury's chic Parisian pied-à-terre appeared in New Paris Interiors and, while browsing the book recently, I was delighted to see that he collects the work of Carine Roitfeld. As one of the world's most successful auctioneers, de Pury has taken the opportunity to amass an impressive collection of art, furniture, and artifacts that includes pieces by Pablo Picasso, Takashi Murakami, Ron Arad, George Condo, Ai Weiwei, Os Gêmeos, and Juergen Teller, among many others.

Above the dining table and chairs designed especially for him by Franz West, de Pury has chosen to hang the work of one of my favorite artistic collaborations — Carine Roitfeld and Mario Testino. Their piercing image of Eva Herzigova fondling her blade, clad in a white Valentino top that is shielded from the blood by a butcher's apron, must certainly lead to interesting conversations over dinner. The image was published originally in the provocative editorial titled "The Butcher" which Roitfeld and Testino created for The Face in 1997. Suffice to say, Simon de Pury is a man of rare taste.

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Simon de Pury photo by Simon Upton © 2013 Hearst Communications, Inc. Simon de Pury apartment in Paris photo © 2008 Taschen GmbH. The Face editorial images © 1997 The Face. All Rights Reserved.