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mars022013

CR Fashion Book: High On Rebellion

samedi 2 mars 2013

CR Fashion Book: High On Rebellion
By Jessica Eritou

Photographed by Jamie Morgan for the first issue of CR Fashion Book, the editorial “High on Rebellion” pleasantly unifies the juxtaposition and hard edged basics with subtle, feminine accents.

The first page features a motorcycle jacket from Calvin Klein which is the epitome of rebel iconographic style. The only caption features the words “Seeking peace, love, unity, respect” which could be an ode, or play on words with the raving community (P.L.U.R.) whom get a lot of negative insurgent reputations. Next is a tutu from Sansha. But it is not the combination of the two that sets this editorial right. In typical Carine Roitfield style, there is always a twist. The model is wearing a reinvented gas mask with floral accents inside and a delicate rose by the mouthpiece. Very subtly, this combination is quite the polarity without the yearning most stylists try when creating drama between two elements.

The next shot features Magda Laguinge in a fur skirt and jacket by Fendi, with natural makeup and hair. This can be an ode and the clash between beast and nature, with primitive elements mixed with her smelling the flower in hand. The shape of the jacket is exquisite, with the detailing on the sleeve and a peplum bottomed edge.

Jamie Hewlett, the comic book artist, co-creator of the band Gorillaz, and fashion designer, contributed a sketch to this editorial featuring his signature style and graphic hard edged sketches. When you view Hewlett's work, it is instantly recognizable. There's a new age soldier with tiny elements and odes to people like Jim Morrison. One could argue Hewlett is making his own political statement but since he adds quirky bits it could be considered satire at the same time.

Next the model is sporting a Nina Ricci sweater which almost gives an Isabel Marant, late 70s Missoni vibe, paired with a leather Kenzo jacket, again in military style with a KSI NYC hat. The composition of the shot is very bold and direct. The soft, luscious sweater parallels wonderfully with the rest of the styling in the outfit. Perhaps it is due to the open-knit stitching of the sweater which helps open up the body and gives the viewer a nice balance of concordance.

Magda is seen wearing a gorgeous Pucci dress holding a white flag, representing another military motif. The dress itself is dawned in detail but with almost an athletic presence to it. There is a great deal of wearability and effortlessness to Pucci and Carine Roitfeld captured this perfectly. The same tones and hues featured on the Pucci dress are followed with the last photo of Madga wearing the helmet (Ministry of Acquisitions) with the same floral colors and line. This is paired with a military coat from Max Mara.

Although this is a great start to Carine's work, I wish there could have been a third element added to this other than hard-edged clothing and symbolism meets feminine motif parallels. It is shot beguilingly, however, CR could have subsumed another perspective to this editorial that not already been done before.