CR Fashion Book Issue 6: Jolie Laide Preview

Carine Roitfeld has revealed that the sixth issue of CR Fashion Book will focus on the French concept of jolie laide. Her idea of the unusually beautiful so far includes Anna Cleveland by Brigitte Niedermair, Kylie Jenner by Michael Avedon, Kristen Stewart by Karl Lagerfeld, and Alexandra Hochguertel in "Boucherie Desnoyer" by Melanie Huynh and Arnaud Pyvka.

Regarding her inspiration for the issue, Carine Roitfeld shared her thoughts: “In fashion, it’s always better to be an interesting person than a beautiful one. Character is much more fascinating than pure good looks. This idea is what inspired me to dedicate an issue to jolie laide, a term that originated in the famous Serge Gainsbourg song of the same name… After hospital [following her multiple back surgeries], I was thinking, What’s my issue going to be about? Because it was very late. So I kept thinking. I like Serge Gainsbourg, the French singer, and he made a beautiful song about Anjelica Huston that I love, too, called 'Jolie Laide.' I think American people know this song. It means 'ugly beauty,' but I think jolie laide maybe is nicer. It’s true in life and mostly in this work of fashion that the idea of beauty has changed… The whole issue will be around this idea of jolie laide—not just about the beauty, but about fashion, about pictures, about something that is more interesting. I think it’s a very good sign for women because we are not all perfect. I made a long story about Michael Avedon; I asked him to do my ugly beauties, in a way. He did the portfolio of jolie laide and it is not easy to photograph a star and make her not as beautiful as people expect her to be. I think he did it in a very smart way; he is a very smart person…  I think every beauty needs something weird—a little error or it’s not beautiful.”

I'd like to mention that our style editor, Dara Block, originally suggested the theme of jolie laide for CR Fashion Book during an interview with me in October 2013; I posed the question, "If it were your decision, who would you put on the next cover of Vogue Paris? Vogue Italia? CR Fashion Book?" Dara responded, "I would love to see some of my favorite 90s supermodels on the cover of Vogue Paris, especially the ones I haven't seen in years like Meghan Douglas, Claudia Mason, Shana Zadrick. These girls were so beautiful in the 90s and I would love to know what they are up to and how they feel now about beauty and glamour. For Vogue Italia and CR Fashion Book, I think for either magazine, it would be interesting if they made a cover on the idea of jolie laide. The term is French and it basically means a good looking ugly woman. I think it's an offbeat beauty concept, but I would love to see women like Angelica Huston, Sofia Coppola, Rossy de Palma, and maybe even model Saskia de Brauw on the cover, to show how you can be beautiful in a non-traditional way. I think that would make for a groundbreaking cover... it's time we celebrate being non-perfectly pretty!" Note also that Franca Sozzani chose Sofia Coppola for the cover of Vogue Italia in February 2014. Coincidence? Perhaps….

In any event, we wish Carine all the best during her recovery and we look forward to much more jolie laide when CR Fashion Book 6 hits newsstands in March.

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CR Fashion Book images courtesy of crfashionbook.com.

Carine Roitfeld: Vanity Fair April 2005

Taking it back to 2005… I find it impossible to believe that a decade has passed since this interview with Carine Roitfeld appeared in the April issue of Vanity Fair. In the iconic image above, close friend and collaborator, Mario Testino captures the essence of Carine, at once classic and coquettish, in a jacket by Yves Saint Laurent, a skirt by Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, and shoes by Sergio Rossi. In case you missed it the first time around, I want to share the interview with you, it is always pleasurable to learn more about the interests of our icon.

Carine Roitfeld
Photographed by Mario Testino in Paris on January 27, 2005.

Residence: Paris.

Occupation: Editor-in-chief, French Vogue.

Personal style: "French, classic, sexy… risky."

Favorite piece of clothing: A vintage Gypsy dress from Yves Saint Laurent.

Most stylish man: "My husband" [Christian "Sisley" Restoin].

Favorite up-and-coming designer: Riccardo Tisci.

Favorite piece of jewelry: A Cartier Panther bracelet from the 70s.

Favorite shoe designer: Saint Laurent. ("Very sexy high-heeled shoes with a touch of 'bizarre.'")

Favorite handbag: "The classic black Chanel."

Favorite scent: Opium pour Homme, by Yves Saint Laurent.

Favorite store: Decades in Los Angeles.

Favorite fashion trend: Summer polka dots.

Manolos or Louboutins? Manolos.

Diamonds or pearls? Diamonds.

Piercings or tattoos? None.

Favorite book: Bonjour Tristesse, by Françoise Sagan.

Favorite cause: AmfAR (The American Foundation for AIDS Research).

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Carine Roitfeld photos © 2005 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld: In The Stars

In her latest spread for Harper's Bazaar, "In the Stars," Carine Roitfeld interprets the twelve zodiacal signs by way of the season's fashion. Anthony Maule photographed the editorial while Stephen Gan provided creative direction. I applaud Carine's imaginative take on the zodiac, with amusing touches such as Saskia de Brauw giving herself the horns of the bull and Lara Stone as a mermaid complete with bubbles to create an underwater effect (as a Pisces, I approve!). Speaking of Lara Stone, she dominates the spread, appearing in eight of the thirteen images. What do you think of Carine's latest work, do you like her interpretation of your sign?

As for the complete list of models and attire for "In the Stars":

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in Louis Vuitton

Aries (Ram)
Lara Stone in Coach and Maison Martin Margiela boots

Taurus (Bull)
Saskia de Brauw in Chanel, Carine Gilson, Wolford, and Maison Martin Margiela boots

Gemini (Twins)
Tegan Desmond and Sarah Brannon in Miu Miu

Cancer (Crab)
Lara Stone in Yohji Yamamoto

Leo (Lion)
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

Virgo (Virgin)
Lara Stone in Dior

Libra (Scales)
Lara Stone in Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane

Scorpio (Scorpion)
Lara Stone in Michael Kors

Sagittarius (Archer)
Lara Stone in JW Anderson and Maison Martin Margiela boots

Capricorn (Goat)
Lara Stone in Prada and Maison Martin Margiela boots

Aquarius (Water Bearer)
Liu Wen in Céline

Pisces (Fish)
Lara Stone in Versace

Visit Harper's Bazaar for an exclusive behind-the-scenes video of "In the Stars"

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Carine on the Collections for Harper's Bazaar images © 2015 Hearst Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Julia Restoin Roitfeld: British GQ September 2014

I loved the images of Julia Restoin Roitfeld that appeared in the September 2014 issue of British GQ and I regret that I am only now finding the time to talk about the issue here. In typical French fashion, Julia appears casual, sexy, and elegant all at once in the photos by Guy Aroch as styled by Julie Ragolia. 

In the first image, Julia looks tough in a black leather shirt by Protagonist as she poses in front of a photo of Andy Warhol shot in the 1960s by Arthur Fellig (also known as Weegee).

We then see JRR lounging seductively on a blanket of fur while modeling a white lace bodysuit by Kiki de Montparnasse.

In the following shot, Julia gazes intensely at the camera in a grey knit sweater by Vince. I think she looks the most like her mother in this picture.

Next comes my favorite among the images: Mademoiselle J perches on a stool in the same grey knit sweater by Vince paired with knickers by Myla and shoes by Christian Louboutin. Bibliothécaire sexy… Ooo la la….

In the final photo, we see Julia Restoin Roitfeld enjoying a cup of tea while looking utterly comfy chic and alluring in a peach knit sweater by Ralph Lauren and knickers by Myla.

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Julia Restoin Roitfeld in British GQ images © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld: Stylist

In 2007, Rizzoli published a fascinating book, Stylist: The Interpreters of Fashion, which collects the work of sixteen legendary image makers as selected by Style.com, and of course Carine Roitfeld made this exclusive list. Browsing the lavish volume is a fashion education unto itself, with influential stylists such as Polly Mellen, Grace Coddington, Edward Enninful, Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, and Karl Templer sharing memorable collaborations and sources of inspiration via interviews with Sarah Mower. Among the talented photographers that collaborated on these iconic images are Cecil Beaton, Richard Avedon, Steven Meisel, Annie Leibovitz, Mario Testino, Bruce Weber, Steven Klein, and Juergen Teller. Raul Martinez provided the creative direction for Stylist and Anna Wintour penned the foreword, in which she admits that as a fashion sittings editor she was never particularly good, although she certainly recognizes and champions editors that are particularly good. Which of her most memorable works did Carine Roitfeld choose to share in Stylist: The Interpreters of Fashion? I was hoping you would ask…

"The Butcher" 
The Face, 1997
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Eva Herzigova
Photographer: Mario Testino

I love that Carine selected three images from her unforgettable editorial, "The Butcher," the work she considers her most compelling. Also notable, a print of the image above hangs in the home of art connoisseur Simon de Pury.

"Au Pérou, chez les Incas"
French Glamour, August 1993
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Helena Christensen
Photographer: Mario Testino

This is one of the most famous of the Roitfeld/Testino collaborations for French Glamour, as well as personal: the location honors the photographer's Peruvian childhood and the model wore a Peruvian sweater belonging to the stylist's father. Trop mignon, non ?

"Néo-Moderne"
French Glamour, 1994
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Nadja Auermann
Photographer: Mario Testino

This is the other most famous of the Roitfeld/Testino collaborations for French Glamour, again with a personal angle: the spread is shot in the néo-moderne apartment of Carine Roitfeld and Christian Restoin. Note also that the model lounges about wearing Gucci loafers, attracting the attention of Tom Ford and leading to one of the sexiest collaborations in fashion history.

Gucci by Tom Ford
Collection stills and ad campaign, 1995
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Photographer: Mario Testino

While Tom Ford is a talented designer and Mario Testino is an accomplished photographer, Carine Roitfeld must be credited with conducting the electricity that created the iconic Gucci look of 1995. As The New York Times observed at the time, "Imagine waking up one morning expecting Harriet Nelson to be making your breakfast and instead found Raquel Welch, circa 1968, beating the eggs."

"Corps & Lames"
Vogue Paris, February 2005
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Gemma Ward
Photographer: Mario Testino

Gemma Ward is anything but innocent in "Corps & Lames," Carine's bizarrely beautiful homage to meat… and polka dots… and sheers… oh my…

Other material that Carine chose to share were images of herself as a young girl, with her family, with her Vogue Paris staff, and of her inspiration board, as well as the portrait below captured by Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin in March 2003 for V Magazine.

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Carine Roitfeld editorial images © 2007 Rizzoli. All Rights Reserved.