Vogue Paris: La Fee Toxique

Throughout the month of March, the IWTBAR team will explore Carine Roitfeld's farewell issue of Vogue Paris from March 2011. From "Cœur a Corps Perdu," Carine's absurdly humorous soft porn tribute to her successor by way of the film Emmanuelle, to the lively and surreal "Audace Manifeste" as styled by Giovanna Battaglia, the last issue of Vogue Paris edited by Carine Roitfeld never fails to inspire.

To lead off the exploration, we begin with a look at "La Fée Toxique," a brilliant decision by Carine to feature Victoire de Castellane in her last Vogue Paris at the same time that the revolutionary jewelry designer was launching her first solo exhibit, Fleurs d’excès, at Galerie Gagosian Paris.

Styled by Olivier Lalanne and shot by Juergen Teller, "La Fée Toxique" displays the surreal gems from Victoire de Castellane's exquisite ten-piece Fleurs d’excès collection. In a strange twist, her precious pieces are named for illegal narcotics although she herself abstains: Extasium Ethero Coïtus, Opium Velourosa Purpa, Acidae Lili Pervertus, Quo Caïnus Magic Disco, L. Es Déliriuma Flash, Cana Bisextem Now, Héroïna Romanticam Dolorosa, Amanita Santane Diabolus, Crac Bouminalum, and Crystalucinea Metha Agressiva. The shoot is set in the colorful apartment of de Castellane and in the background we can see the childhood watercolor paintings of her husband, Thomas Lenthal.

De Castellane was destined to collaborate with Chanel, having being raised by her uncle, who happened to be one of Karl Lagerfeld's principal assistants. After 14 years spent overseeing Chanel's costume jewelry designs, inspiring the collections, and even walking the runway at times, de Castellane became creative director of Christian Dior fine jewelry in 1998 where she continues to create today.

In 2006, Victoire de Castellane was chosen by Sofia Coppola to play a small part in her film Marie Antoinette and in 2007, the talented jewelry designer was awarded the Légion d’Honneur, clearly the epitome of a Parisienne original. If you would like to learn more about the work of de Castellane, I recommend Dior Joaillerie and Victoire de Castellane, Fleurs d’excès.

More from Vogue Paris March 2011

Vogue Paris March 2011: Audace Manifeste
By Dara Block

Vogue Paris March 2011: Body Secrets
By Bernie Rothschild

Vogue Paris March 2011: Coeur À Corps Perdu
By Kate Ringo Suzuki

Vogue Paris March 2011: Expression Figurative
By Jessica Eritou

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2011 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

CR Fashion Book: Elsa

CR Fashion Book: Elsa
By Bernie Rothschild

In her debut issue of CR Fashion Book, Carine Roitfeld made a stunning tribute to the legendary Elsa Peretti with her editorial "Elsa." The editorial itself was inspired by the style of Ms. Peretti during the 1970s as one of the talented scene stealers of that decade. But who is Elsa Peretti really? As we all know, Elsa Peretti is an accomplished woman and one of the world's most renowned jewelry designers. Just recently her long time collaborator Tiffany & Co. paid her the staggering amount of $43 million to buy out her famous open heart necklace design, one of the company's best selling assets. Peretti has worked with Tiffany's since 1974 and has designed some of their most iconic pieces including Carine Roitfeld's favorite scorpion pendant which became a part of her fashion style.

Besides being one of the most prominent jewelry designers, Elsa Peretti has a very interesting and inspiring persona. Elsa was born to a very wealthy family in Florence, Italy, in 1940. She studied in Rome and Switzerland and became a French teacher for a brief period. Bored with her life, she went to Spain to become a model and quickly developed as the favorite of Salvador Dali. Elsa was one of the top models of the swinging 60s. She then went to New York where she shone as a favorite model of the legendary Diana Vreeland who became her mentor and friend.

Elsa Peretti emerged as one of the icons that characterized the glittering 70s. This became her shining moment. Her glamorous presence in the social scene — together with her contemporaries Marina Schiano, Marisa Berenson, Benedetta Barzini, and Loulou de la Falaise — influenced the style of that decade. She was one of the fixtures of the hedonistic Studio 54 where she socialized with the likes of Truman Capote and Andy Warhol.

On top of that, Helmut Newton photographed Elsa for French Vogue wearing a bunny hat by Halston (her best friend) on top of a building in New York and the image became synonymous with the sexual decadence of the 1970s. Proving that she is not just another pretty face or social scene stealer, Ms. Peretti reinvented herself as a jewelry and accessories designer. She is well known in the fashion world as the muse of Halston. She once stated "I had a deep love affair with Halston, without having a love affair." They became close collaborators and Peretti designed Halston's trademark perfume that grew to be the top selling fragrance of all time next to Chanel No. 5. She also designed the famous sterling silver buckle belt on which Tom Ford based his Fall 1996 collection for Gucci as well as jewelry for Giorgio di Sant' Angelo (one of the most famous designers of the 1970s) and Oscar de la Renta.

Peretti's designs are not intimidating and grandiose, instead simplicity and elegance developed as her winning technique and revolutionized jewelry design. The "Elsa" spread in the debut issue of CR Fashion Book is just a perfect definition of how colorful Ms. Peretti's life is but also an interesting intellectual character that made her a success in her game. Long live the Queen of Tiffany's.

More from CR Fashion Book Issue 1: Rebirth

CR Fashion Book: A Woman's Life
By Renee Hernandez

CR Fashion Book: High On Rebellion
By Jessica Eritou

CR Fashion Book: Hush Little Baby, Don't You Cry
By Kate Ringo Suzuki

Inside the Pages of CR
By Dara Block

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Editorial images © 2012 CR Fashion Book. Elsa Peretti photos courtesy of Condé Nast and elseperretidesign.blogspot.com

I Want To Be A Roitfeld Contest

I am excited to announce the latest IWTB contest in collaboration with I Heard They Eat Cigarettes, a cool Australian company specializing in unique jewelry. Choose a ring from the IHTEC site and imagine how you would incorporate it into an editorial styled by Carine Roitfeld then submit your idea for a chance to win the ring! You can either alter the image yourself to include the ring of your choice or simply describe your concept using the entry form — this is not a measurement of Photoshop skills but of creativity. The contest is limited to the first 100 respondents and ends 12 March 2013. Please note that the IWTB team is ineligible to play. All submissions become property of IWTB and may be published at my discretion. Good luck to all!

Submit your concept here.

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Editorial images © 2010 Condé Nast and © 2012 CR Fashion Book. All Rights Reserved. IHTEC mod by Kellina de Boer.

Carine Roitfeld At David Yurman Rooftop Soiree

Carine Roitfeld et al photographs courtesy of bfanyc.com. All Rights Reserved.

Roitfeld And Battaliga Engaged?

I noticed this adorable little puppy in Giovanna Battaglia's Twitpics, isn't he so cute? Then my eyes focused on the gorgeous diamond on her ring finger on her left hand — WHOA!!! I realize women wear rings on various fingers these days with no particular meaning attached, but this ring screams "attached." I certainly cannot state definitively that she and Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld are engaged to be married but this evidence strongly suggests the possibility... If anyone knows anything about the status of their relationship, please let me know. We certainly would want to be among the first to congratulate the happy couple if so...

Giovanna Battaglia photograph courtesy of Twitter.com/Batgiovanna