Vogue Paris March 2011: Audace Manifeste
By Dara Block
March 2011 will forever be known as one of the saddest yet most innovative months in Vogue Paris history. In case you do not remember, that was Carine Roitfeld's last issue of Vogue Paris as editor-in-chief and, as expected, she did not disappoint. Each editorial is a vivacious blend of art, fashion, and fantasy, all done with that Carine Roitfeld sensibility we all know and love. With that stated, let's take an in-depth look inside the pages of one of my favorite layouts from her final issue entitled "Audace Manifeste."
First of all, let's just talk about that title, which simply translates in English as "Bold Manifesto," a very thought-provoking title to go with such mind-bending imagery. The editorial was photographed by Mikael Jansson and styled by Giovanna Battaglia. These photos are definitely eye-catching, what Mikael Jansson does best, and I love the way Giovanna Battaglia incorporates all that jewelry. The layering of necklaces, bracelets, and rings is all very reminiscent of the late Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli. It's obvious that Giovanna was very much inspired by her remarkable sense of style and all that jeweled glitz is a beautiful reminder of her work. I so appreciate Giovanna Battaglia's modern take on Elsa Schiaparelli... it's classic, but very fashion forward.
The first photo from the layout is of supermodel Missy Rayder, looking very scary-chic, if I might add. I so love the way in which her face blends in with that mask of Salvador Dalí. It's obvious that Giovanna Battaglia wanted to combine avant-garde fashion and surrealism. There are so many interesting elements going on... the grey dipped hair and, of course, those hands with all that decadent jewelry. The red hands, in particular, pay homage to Dalí's biography entitled The Secret Life of Salvador Dalí where he mentions "the bestial women with red hands." This is a very obscure reference, but I love all the hidden significance behind the styling of this particular photograph! Who would ever think all that could be conveyed so brilliantly....
Next up is another image of Missy Rayder, this time in black and white. There is something kind of Cleopatra and Princess Leia about this look. Once again, we see such amazing styling with all that Bulgari jewelry. Missy Rayder has such an intense look on her face and I can't help but be drawn towards that third eye painted on her forehead. The overall look was very much inspired by Alejandro Jodorowsky's cult film The Holy Mountain which came out in 1973... love the strange connection between film and fashion... it's executed to perfection!
Following Missy Rayder comes a very distorted image of model Arizona Muse in a lavish Alexander McQueen feather dress. This is a very distinct homage to one of Salvador Dalí's most memorable paintings entitled La Persistencia de la Memoria. Just by looking at that warped clock in the background you can identify the inspiration. I also like how her McQueen dress practically melts away at the bottom of the photograph. Mikael Jansson did an excellent job at capturing that Salvador Dalí sensibility. If Dalí was alive today to see this photograph, I know he would highly approve... this is indeed the proper way to transform art into fashion!
I also love how the editorial features a non-distorted version of that McQueen dress. We really get to see all the gorgeous details of those feathers and of course all that extravagant jewelry. Let's also not forget that stunning crystal ball. If you look closely, you can see an eye staring right back at you... which I assume is that of Salvador Dalí! I so love that mysterious reference and how freakishly chic the styling is... Giovanna Battaglia totally went above and beyond fashion with this look!
The last two images of "Audace Manifeste" are all about the eyes… which was a continuous theme in Salvador Dalí's art. First we see Arizona Muse looking so darkly chic with those black eyes painted on her eyelids. This is actually a reference to Jean Cocteau's avant-garde 1930 film entitled The Blood of a Poet. I have noticed that Vogue Paris frequently loves to pay homage to film director Jean Cocteau... just look back at the December 2005 issue with Kate Moss and you can see what an influence he has been in the magazine. He truly was ahead of his time, and I love that Giovanna Battaglia was very much inspired by him for the styling of this particular image. There is even more visual stimulation going on with those red nails and lips... it's all so striking and I love that expression on her face. There is something very sinister but yet so breathtaking about this photograph.
The layout ends with another image of Missy Rayder and some extra added eyes and brows. She almost even looks like Salvador Dalí in this photo. Perhaps the idea was for Missy Rayder to see life through Dalí's eyes. I guess that is up to the viewer to decide and, whatever the inspiration may be, I so love how her grey dipped curls somehow end up on that man's chest. I am not really sure why this man all of a sudden shows up in the end of the layout, but I can certainly see some male and female symbolism. The overall effect is all so surreal, and so frighteningly stylish, a perfect way to end such an oddly gorgeous editorial.
As we can see, "Audace Manifeste" totally takes art, fashion, and fantasy to a whole new level. I am totally creeped out yet so inspired by it all. Those hands, painted eyes, and dramatic jewelry are all styled to perfection. In addition, I can't help but also admire that Salvador Dalí and Elsa Schiaparelli influence and how Giovanna Battaglia was able to combine all that together into something so imaginative and cutting edge. It's always a treat to see a thought provoking and visually stimulating editorial, like this! Thank you Carine Roitfeld for leaving Vogue Paris on such a high note. This is really such a gem of a layout and "Audace Manifeste" will always remain a psycho-chic classic!
More from Vogue Paris March 2011
Vogue Paris March 2011: Body Secrets
By Bernie Rothschild
Vogue Paris March 2011: Coeur À Corps Perdu
By Kate Ringo Suzuki
Vogue Paris March 2011: Expression Figurative
By Jessica Eritou
Vogue Paris March 2011: La Fee Toxique
By Kellina de Boer
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jeudi 10 juillet 2014 
