Vogue Paris April 2001: Tentation Rebelle

This month the IWTBAR team will flash back to April 2001 to examine the third issue of Vogue Paris produced by Carine Roitfeld with the focus on "Tentation Rebelle;" Erin Wasson was the perfect cover model to convey her message. I have translated the issue's "Le Point de Vue" from French to English so that we can better understand Carine's vision for rebel temptation... Note that the editor's letter was very plain then and not yet emblazoned with her signature "CR" so instead let's enjoy the amazing cover shot which melds the talents of stylist Marie-Amélie Sauvé and photographer Hans Feurer to set the tone for "Tentation Rebelle."

Effrontée, la dégaine boudeuse, fausse méchante et tendre voyou. Elle est là : c'est la tentation rebelle. Vêtement limite, juste à l'endroit stratégique, dentelle en morceaux, mais somptueux lambeaux sur un corps en dévoilé résille. Ces vêtements, on les croit interdits, mauvais goût, mauvais genre. Ce numéro met ce préjugé K.O. Le sourcil est froncé mais le charme complètement désarmant.

Descente express sur Berlin, rebelle city par excellence. Instantanés d'une ville prise sur le vif, extérieurs nuit, et tous ses clans comme en Cinémascope, parfois un carré blanc. C'est la pulsion punk, domptée à la sophistication : trench trash mais tout cuir, plastique rose shocking mais sabré au champagne.

Perfecto biker, chaîne et grosse boucle : une panoplie de chef de gang, mais larme à l'œil, le cran d'arrêt désamorcé tweed et baby cachemire. Les rebelles ont leur égérie : Betty Catroux, jean androgyne et soleil noir un peu mélancolique. Aujourd'hui comme hier, elle est modèle d'inspiration. Les rebelles ont leurs lois : surtout ne rien faire comme les autres. Un temple leur est désormais consacré. Tel que l'imagine Rei Kawakubo, l'art du shopping ne sera plus jamais comme avant. Les images non plus : l'op art drainé par Denise René a envahi la ville.

Brazen, the outlandish pouting, false wicked and tender hooligan. She is there: the tempting rebel. Limited clothing, strategically located, lace pieces, but sumptuous tatters revealing a body of fishnet. Such clothes, they are thought to be banned, bad taste, bad style. This issue knocks out this prejudice. The brow is gathered but the charm is completely disarming. 

Downhill express from Berlin, rebel city par excellence. Snapshots of a city taken on the spot, outside at night, and all the clans like in Cinemascope, sometimes a white square. This is the punk impulse, tamed sophistication: trashy trench but all leather, shocking pink plastic but cut with champagne.

Perfecto biker, chain and big buckle: a variety of gang leader, but a tear in the eye, the safety catch disarmed with tweed and baby cashmere. The rebels have their muse: Betty Catroux, androgynous jeans and black sun a little melancholy. Today as yesterday, she is a model of inspiration. The rebels have their laws: above all do nothing like the others. A shrine is now devoted to them. As imagined by Rei Kawakubo, the art of shopping will never be as before. Nor the images: the op art attracted by Denise René invaded the city.

More from Vogue Paris April 2001

Vogue Paris April 2001: Bande A Part
By Jessica Eritou

Vogue Paris April 2001: Berlin
By Dara Block

Vogue Paris April 2001 Translation: Initiales B.C.
By Kellina de Boer

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Vogue Paris cover image © 2001 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Vogue Paris February 2003

February is a satisfying month for fans of Carine Roitfeld with the release of her second issue of CR Fashion Book and her first issue as global fashion director for Harper's Bazaar. I thought it would be interesting to look back at Carine's work from exactly a decade ago, the February 2003 issue of Vogue Paris. The IWTBAR team will review pieces from the issue throughout the month beginning with this fun look at the preferences of the VP team, fondly known as the French Voguettes. Styled by four different assistants and photographed by Thomas LaGrange, each page examines the individual aesthetic of one of the top Vogue Paris editors at the time: Carine. Emmanuelle. Anastasia. Marie-Amélie. Which is your favorite?

More from Vogue Paris February 2003

Vogue Paris February 2003: Gang Lang
By Kellina de Boer

Vogue Paris February 2003: La Joueuse... Aux Jambes Nues
By Dara Block

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2003 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Marie-Amélie Sauvé: Cutting Edge Allure

Marie-Amélie Sauvé: Cutting Edge Allure
By Bernie Rothschild

Marie-Amélie Sauvé is a regular fixture in the front row of all the hottest fashion shows in town. A star stylist in her own right, she also starred as a model in the advertising campaign that Carine Roitfeld styled for Barneys New York for Fall 2011.

Marie-Amélie is known in the fashion industry for her professional and personal relationship with Nicolas Ghesquière. The pair have worked together since day one, when Marie-Amélie served as the house's all around muse/stylist/fit model, trying the clothes before they hit the runway and influencing the look of the Balenciaga runway with her personal style. When every designer was being nostalgic and looking to the past for inspiration, the duo pushed the immaculate design house forward by creating its trademark futuristic glamour and experimental, cutting edge, almost impossible shapes without disrespecting the original designs of its founder, Monsieur Cristóbal Balenciaga. They redefined the meaning of "High Street" couture by influencing the style of the street with the glory of haute couture. Marie-Amélie has also helped to style fashion shows such as The Row, Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, Roberto Cavalli, and Chloé.

As for her magazine career, Marie-Amélie started at Vogue Paris as an intern at the age of 18 then climbed her way to the top of fashion ladder. In the mid/late 1990s, she worked at the trendy French teen magazine 20 Ans. Then in 2001, under the creative editorship of Carine Roitfeld, Marie-Amélie returned to Vogue Paris as a special fashion consultant/editor-at-large, together with former colleague Emmanuelle Alt. As the legend goes, the trio created memorable shots for the magazine and brought excitement, sensuality, and fantasy, breathing new life into the ailing fashion publication. From mid 2008 to 2011, Marie-Amélie worked as a contributing editor at Vogue US, collaborating with the likes of Inez and Vinoodh, Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier, Craig McDean, and David Sims, and with Steven Meisel at Vogue Italia. We should also mention that Marie-Amélie was part of the redesign of Interview Magazine by Fabien Baron. Her editorial style is noticeably no nonsense, futuristic, intellectual, and direct with a touch of the sensual eroticism for which the French are known.

Marie-Amélie's departure from Vogue Paris two years ago was highly controversial and the rumors suggested that her firing was the reason the entire Vogue Paris team was banned from everything Balenciaga (until now). Note that when Carine left Vogue Paris, she and Nicolas put their alleged differences behind them. In the past spring 2012 fashion shows it is noticeably obvious that Marie-Amélie and Carine are attending events together and seated together again just like their old days at Vogue Paris. It was also reported that Marie-Amélie would be involved in the new magazine that La Roitfeld will launch this fall — how exciting is that? For the meantime, Marie-Amélie is newly hired at W Magazine as a senior fashion editor, bringing her edge to the trendiest clothes of the season for one of the most fashion forward magazines on the newsstand! Stay tuned for much more styling greatness from this visionary French woman.

Marie-Amélie Sauvé photographs © 2012 Condé Nast and courtesy of purple.fr, barneys.com, style.com, and Fashion Spot.