I Want To Be A Roitfeld

Kellina de Boer
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Dara Block
STYLE EDITOR

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Jessica Eritou
Renee Hernandez
Bernie Rothschild

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Entries in Editorial (145)

vendredi
sept.062013

Vogue Paris August 2004: China Charm

Vogue Paris August 2004: China Charm
By Jessica Eritou

The childlike, delicate elements to "China Charm" in Vogue Paris provide a tranquil motif throughout the editorial. Shot by Craig McDean and styled by Carine Roitfeld herself, this 2004 editorial features Gemma Ward, one of fashion's most missed models till this day. This was a smart move for Vogue Paris to cast Ward as the model because of her soft, delicate features which complement the shoot effortlessly.

However, the shoot tends to fall flat. There is a fine line between cultural appropriation where instead the art becomes a stereotype but the editorial seems to be quite distant from the title itself. Most of the clothes featured Italian designers like Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana. The poses are somewhat predictable and short-lived, yet the reader gets a sense of what Carine Roitfeld was trying to embellish with this shoot. Each of the selected garments were beautifully crafted clothes, yet too high of contrast to grasp the details of the garment.

The first shot captures Ward in a very delicate, overly feminine position showcasing her figure. Her jacket features an Asian inspired Mandarin collared top with nothing on underneath. This is paired with a dark, lush, restrictive wiggle skirt. Underneath are patterned leggings with something you might see on a teapot.

The second shot looks more like an advertisement for the Sony camera featured throughout “China Charm.” This is a very stunning, powerful shot of Ward, but the composition of the shot and the placement of the camera is all the reader can grasp.

A great and successful shot features Gemma Ward in the black, shiny, sleeveless full-length ball gown. Convincingly, this shot does not showcase any of the themes in this editorial nor the title of it, yet it is so simple and profound. Ward is used as a model without any connotations, just simply for fashion.

Another highlight in this shoot was of Ward looking stunning in all red, paired with a beautiful T-strap sandal. There is a story behind this shot, this work now has the reader intrigued as to what is going on due to her body language and pose. Her lavender hair is in harmony with her, perhaps, painted on socks, or hosiery. This is complementary with the hue of the red fur cropped cape and the body-con silk dress. Although each garment is the same hue, the textures contrast wonderfully for this shot.

Gemma Ward is featured in a gorgeous Alexander McQueen dress which artistically combines in every element from the minimalist background she is shot against, to her lavender streaked hair, to the flowers featured on the dress. The Sony camera appears again but used quietly as an accessory and not in the foreground this time. The reader is able to grasp the simplicity and the delicacy of Gemma Ward and the dress with tranquility.

Perhaps the best shot is a close up of Ward in a textured jacket featured a side zipper, holding on to the camera, while she has a simple hair accessory at the top of her crown of hair. There is such a strong emotional sense the viewer can get from this shot. Finally, there is a story to be said. We wonder what is she thinking, why is she positioned that way.

Perhaps simplicity and purity was the goal to this shoot, but overall could have gone much further with more depth to the storyline behind each photograph. Only a select few images grasp the reader's attention as to what is going on in the model's head or the shot itself. The clothing selected is beautiful, but nonetheless I wish Roitfeld and McDean pushed much harder for this editorial. Instead, it leaves a relatively safe feeling, knowing how much more it could have been with their potential.

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Vogue Paris editorial image © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

jeudi
sept.052013

Vogue Paris Translation: Editorial, August 2004

As we glance back to the August 2004 issue of Vogue Paris, here is my translation from French to English of the editorial written by Carine Roitfeld. How I adore her turn of phrase, so like her images, at once charming and provocative.

"Personne n'a à me dire ce que je dois porter", a coutume de dire Madonna. Sans vouloir offenser la "pop queen", en couverture de ce numéro et dont la série de concerts à Paris s'annonce d'emblée comme l'événement de la rentrée, c'est ce que nous avons décidé de faire ce mois-ci : ne pas vous laisser le choix et vous mettre en présence des total looks les plus marquants de l'automne-hiver. Un Vogue spécial mode donc, doublé d'un supplément défilés (ci-dessus, Dior par John Galliano), imaginé non pas comme une "bible de diktats", mais comme un décapsuleur d'envies. Envies de léopard, de noir fluide, d'une silhouette graphique et de voluptueuses audaces, entre modernité et tradition, symptôme d'une saison "Asie-mutée". La vitalité d'un rythme de lignes franches que l'on retrouve dans l'architecture japonaise, chez ses "fabuleux sorciers" (Shin Takamatsu, Takashi Yamagushi, Tokyo Ito...) dont le travail est un témoignage à l'air libre de la relation essentielle qui existe entre la légèreté et la modernité.

"Nobody has to tell me what to wear," Madonna often says. No offense to the "pop queen" — on the cover of this issue and whose series of concerts in Paris upon being announced were immediately the event of the season — that is exactly what we decided to do this month: give you no choice and put you in the presence of the most striking total looks of the fall-winter styles. A Vogue fashion special therefore, bundled with a supplement to the shows (above, Dior by John Galliano), imagined not as a "Bible of dictates," but as a wish list opener. Cravings for leopard, for fluid black, for a graphic silhouette and for sensuous audacity, between modernity and tradition, a symptom of the "Asia-mutated" season. The vitality of the rhythm of clean lines found in Japanese architecture, with its "fabulous sorcerers" (Shin Takamatsu, Takashi Yamaguchi, Tokyo Ito...) whose work is a testament in the open air to the essential relationship which exists between lightness and modernity.

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Vogue Paris editorial image © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

mardi
sept.032013

CR Fashion Book Issue 3: The Mask

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CR Fashion Book Issue 3 cover image © 2013 CR Fashion Book. All Rights Reserved.

samedi
août242013

CR Fashion Book: Totally Head To Toe

Carine Roitfeld is unveiling her third issue of CR Fashion Book ever so slowly… our most recent peek is the short film featured on her web site, Totally Head to Toe, by Jordan Backhus as shot by Max von Gumppenberg and Patrick Bienert. Set to the tune of Alison Valentine's “Peanut Butter,” Totally Head to Toe highlights the cast of models that will grace the pages of the Fall/Winter issue of CR Fashion Book.

Julia Restoin-Roitfeld enters the frame at 1:52, barely recognizable with her short hair, her eyes ringed in shimmering teal green and her lips coated with a thick brick red. Her Prada outfit is divine, the teal green leather suits her perfectly. Julia is credited as art director of the short film as well according to models.com. I'd love to know, what do you think of this look for Julia?

Totally Head to Toe also stars Lily Donaldson, Xiao Wen Ju, Karolina Kurkova, Jessica Hart, Irina Shayk, Nadja Bender, Sasha Luss, Lindsey Wixson, Lakshmi Menon, Soo Joo Park, Ashleigh Good, Candice Swanepoel, Stef Van Der Laan, and Anna Ewers. It looks to be another fascinating issue of CR Fashion Book for sure, I am so looking forward to more…

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Julia Restoin-Roitfeld photographs © 2013 CR Fashion Book. All Rights Reserved.

jeudi
août222013

Carine Roitfeld: Interview Magazin

Carine Roitfeld appears in the September issue of the German publication Interview Magazin and I adore this shot of her peeking out from behind fashion, très mignon. Unfortunately I have only a bit of the text from the interview which is roughly rendered in English via Google Translate. (I will take credit for "Edgy Existence," someone please correct me if I am wrong, but this certainly describes CR.)

Nervös Gewesen?

Carine Roitfeld, 58, erklärt, warum sie lieber Beifahrerin ist 

CARINE ROITFELD: Wie war noch mal Ihr Name? 

INTERVIEW: Raha. 

ROITFELD: Raha?! C’est difficult. 

INTERVIEW: Ihren Namen richtig auszusprechen fällt mir aber auch nicht leicht. 

ROITFELD: Carine?! 

INTERVIEW: Nein, ich meinte Ihren…

Edgy Existence?

Carine Roitfeld, 58, explains why she prefers co-driving

CARINE ROITFELD: What was your name again? 

INTERVIEW: Raha. 

ROITFELD: Raha?! C'est difficult. 

INTERVIEW: I pronounce your name correctly, but also not easy. 

ROITFELD: Carine?!

INTERVIEW: No, I meant your...

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Carine Roitfeld photograph © 2013 Interview Magazin. All Rights Reserved.

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