Carine Roitfeld For Jil Sander

The lovely and talented Kamila Brudzynska recently acquired the February 1996 issue of Vogue Paris including an article on Jil Sander to which Carine Roitfeld contributed. Kamila kindly translated the article from French to English for us to enjoy, along with providing the scans of the article. Merci mille fois, Kamila.

Jil Sander: Less Is More
Translation by Kamila Brudzynska

Her spring-summer '96 collection is a model of equilibrium. Jil Sander has the art and the way to develop simply modern fashion.

Absolute Relaxation 

Three editors selected their favorite Jil Sander designs to develop according to their own style. Carine Roitfeld, freelance stylist and ex-Glamour stylist, chose a man's sweater in dark grey with a white mini skirt and a white coat with red shantung trousers. Designed by Mats Gustafson. Jil Sander says: "It is a square coat, made from a blend of wool and Panama straw — yes, straw hats are also made of this. We can sculpt this material, which I love because it is not fuzzy, because it is straight ahead, and it confers a strong but relaxed attitude. And just a little color with the trousers to shock."

The Private Eroticism of the White Marinière 

"When I was younger, even before I started to work in fashion, I observed women and I always have told them they can be more beautiful. I wanted to bring out their beauty, the shape of their head, charm, strength. In the late Sixties, women dressed in a ridiculous way, everything was confused, especially in Germany. I may have been one of the first to try to define a woman of strength. There is always a tension in what I'm doing, tension between femininity and a certain androgyny. No tutus, no little girl, and especially not lady-ish."

Lady-ish? This is a German speaking, the blonde Jil Sander. Her first real fashion show took place seven years ago, in Milan; today, Jil Sander although based in Hamburg, has established herself  as the international designer who sets the tone: a sleek and subtle style, which can not discover the secrets and the touch of rare and thoughtful fabrics, or the fitting — 40 jackets cut for every season, each cut in different proportions to the figure of each valued client. Long legs, short legs, long torso, square or small shoulders, young or not, you can find here each individuality. Jil Sander eats breakfast at Relais Plaza, next to her boutique, surrounded by women in clothes from couture tailors whose dogs wears outfits. She appears in sweater, trousers, flat shoes. This is her style, modern, almost muted, but a muted effect with a deep bass that shakes everything without the need for high notes.

"I need to work with quality fabrics, but modern quality, not quality… sweet. Cool wool, the man's fabrics, the man's sweaters, the quality which menswear has but it works as sexy. A feminine attitude, masculine fabrics. The fabric, it is a way of making the voice visible."

Marie-Amélie Sauvé, Vogue editor for 14 years, chose a cashmere turtleneck sweater with the viscose gabardine bermuda shorts, grained leather moccasins by Sergio Rossi, and the marinière with the simple shirt made of canvas cotton blend. All photographed by Michael Thompson and Laurie Bird. Jil Sander says: "I want women to be younger and fresher. The marinière is in cotton pique stretch, with a finish just like paper. It's cut to be close but it's stretch, so it moves with the body. It feels tight as a corset, it pinches but without adding curves."

Materials and Proportions

Franceline Orat, editor-in-chief of accessories and jewelry in Vogue for 18 years, selected the silk shantung pantsuit and the gabardine raincoat tied at the waist, accessorized with jewelry designed by Antoine Rivaud from the 1930s, by Lydia Courteille, and cultured pearls by Angela Pintaldi of the Joyce Gallery. Photographed by Daniel Jouanneau. Jil Sander says: "I like the brilliance of true silk shantung. I designed the pantsuit two years ago in organza, and then in silver fabric, last year in super rayon, now silk attracts me. The coat is in rayon — the kind which I found in Japan: the fabric is twisted which gives it a disturbing touch, toned, resistant but light.

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 1996 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

IWTB Interview: Antje Winter

IWTB Interview: Antje Winter
By Heather Dunhill

It is a rare opportunity that we get to hear from the person behind a fashion icon like Carine Roitfeld. But, here at I Want To Be A Roitfeld we’ve had an exclusive inside chat with German-born Antje Winter who served as Carine’s right-hand woman for nearly two years then worked with her as a fashion editor for Vogue Paris for two more years.

Not only does Antje have an oh-so-enviable résumé as a stylist — working with names like Mario Testino, Karl Lagerfeld, Paco Rabanne, Louis Vuitton, Max Mara, Shiseido, and Costume National — she also has launched her own fashion collection, which is divinely simple in design. You must check it out. But, first… some insight from Antje on Queen Carine….

However did you land the coveted role as Carine Roitfeld's assistant?

I was an intern at Vogue Paris in the right time. Benjamin Gallopin had just left and Carine and I got along really well so she asked me to become her assistant. Later on, Vogue Paris asked me to become a fashion editor — three months later Carine became editor-in-chief and was my boss again.

Dying to know, what was it like to work with the queen of fashion as she ruled the Vogue Paris headquarters?  

It was a great pleasure every day. Carine is funny and cool and generous and we shared so many unforgettable moments. In the time before Vogue Paris, Carine was very rock 'n' roll, she picked the exciting jobs, which came with a great trip or an incredible styling story where we had the freedom to do what we wanted. So working with her was never boring.

Vogue Paris team: Anastasia Barbieri, Antje Winter, Claire Dhelens, Emmanuelle Alt, Carine Roitfeld. Photography by Terry Richardson for Self Service.

What’s the Roitfeld process while putting together a feature?

I would say Carine’s way of putting a story together is very intuitive. She has a vision of what she wants and an incredible memory of the collections. So she picks the right pieces and turns them into a new silhouette, makes them her own language.

Any memorable pieces on which you collaborated?

To mention some: Gisele Bündchen mod fighting for The Face. Or Eva Herzigova for Vogue Paris all in white, “blanc absolu," or Gisele wiping the floor in Naples for the Pirelli calendar.

What did you learn about style and styling from CR?

Carine Roitfeld is not afraid to share, so working with her you are part of every process, you get to learn everything about fashion. But one of the most important lessons was to stay authentic and treat people well and keep a smile on the face.

It’s my feeling (#wishhopedream) that Queen Carine can make anything happen. Tell us about a time that she pulled a rabbit out of a hat…

I watched her once transforming a random Brazilian jeans line into something hot and edgy and desirable. She does it so easy and natural and all of a sudden every silhouette looks like her.

Okay, enough about CR. What have you been up to since your days at Vogue Paris…

I have had a wonderful styling career so far and I am a very thankful for all the great opportunities I’ve had working with inspiring people and traveling to the most incredible places. I had a small break, as I am a mother of three girls now but back to work and excited for all the upcoming jobs and projects. I started a small capsule collection on my own called AWINTER. Lets see how that works. :)

How about a no-fail signature styling trick for those of us who love French fashion tips?

Do not be scared, use your scissors, pull your imagination, transform if needed, and build your own silhouette. But always keep it simple and respect the designer’s work.

For more of the stylings of Antje Winter at Vogue Paris, see the editorial "Bande A Part" from the April 2001 issue.

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Antje Winter and Carine Roitfeld photos courtesy of Antje Winter, Art Partner, Self Service, Miguel Reveriego, and Condé Nast.

Carine Roitfeld: Intercontinental Chic

In a piece titled "Intercontinental Chic" for the August issue of Harper's Bazaar, "the world's most fashionable women, handpicked by the editors of Bazaar's international editions, share their secrets," and of course Carine Roitfeld tops the list of the très chic. In case you have not seen it, here are a few of Carine's personal preferences in culture, beauty, and fashion.

Carine Roitfeld on the essence of France's irreverent cool

CULTURE

Escape: The Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes is pure luxury.

Design: Any furniture by Knoll.

Film: E.T. — a classic!

Book: Dostoyevsky's Crime and Punishment.

Restaurant: Shang Palace at the Shangri-La Hotel, in Paris. It reminds me of the Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong.

Extras: I'm very fond of white tulips, particularly the way they continue to grow even after they've been cut. It's strange and beautiful.

BEAUTY

Routine: I'm quite unfaithful to skin-care products, but I do like La Prairie.

Eyes: Serge Lutens eyeliner comes in an old-fashioned lacquered box — you feel like a geisha when you use it.

FASHION

Philosophy: I'm always inspired by Helmut Newton's photographs of Yves Saint Laurent and by the work of Bob Richardson.

Key Pieces: For fall, I'm excited to wear Prada's long, thin scarves, as well as Givenchy's butterfly dress — butterflies are a big trend this season. And I love Tom Ford's long black skirt and jacket, to me this look is the new Le Smoking.

Shoes: I adore Miu Miu's translucent boots.

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Carine Roitfeld images and text © 2014 Hearst Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Spring Forward: Carine Roitfeld For Harper's Bazaar

Spring Forward: Carine Roitfeld For Harper's Bazaar
By Jessica Eritou

Carine Roitfeld teamed up with Karl Lagerfeld for the March issue of Harper's Bazaar which will be shown internationally in each of its 29 issues. Well-known models like Naomi Campbell, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, and Karolina Kurkova make appearances in this spread showcasing the Spring 2014 collections.

The editorial features energetic and illustrative shots either outside at night or with a brightly colored background. Each of the models has a certain Mod, 1960s makeup or hairstyle which has been a trend for quite some time. What is remarkable, however, is that this is very unlike what we are seeing from New York, Paris, or Milan Fashion Week in 2014. Most of the makeup is very natural, with an emphasis on brows. Roitfeld's editorial for Spring is entirely different.

The prominent pale pink we've seen throughout Fashion Week also appears in the spread, shown on Rosie Huntington-Whiteley with her classic cable-knit cashmere sweater and conservative oversized vest, both by Dior.

Karolina Kurkova is posed wearing a minimal black and white school girl style dress, similar to what Hedi Slimane did a few seasons ago for Saint Laurent, but the Ralph Lauren Collection mades the dress more wearable and not so juvenile. Done in a predictable black boot from Louis Vuitton, and accessories by Prada (turban excluded), Carine Roitfeld could have pushed this look a bit further for something not so expected.

The ongoing tuxedo trend with womenswear is ever prominent with the Saint Laurent jumpsuit on Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. Carine paired the piece flawlessly with an ultra feminine leopard print punk evening bag for an effortless look.

The constant use of turbans and mid-length skirts for the rest of the shoot perhaps predicts what will be in stores for Spring. While some might have an issue with turbans and its culture appropriation, the mid-length skirt will be a hit for sure breaking away from the short dress trend of the last few seasons.

Naomi Campbell in a less-than-exciting printed dress from Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci in a dark alley. Although the dress appears to have sequins, it does not show off the way it should as it gets lost in the overall composition of the night sky. Also, it should be noted that this is the only shot in which Campbell is featured.  

In the finale of the shoot, Prada's popular graphic fur coats are shown on a triad of models with playful sport tube socks and sandals.

Overall, it is evident that there is still a fixation on sports and athleticism for Spring 2014. Runway RTW looks can be quite different from editorials, but the overall aesthetic is more relatable from what we have seen on the street, rather than the runway.

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Carine's Edit for Harper's Bazaar images © 2014 Hearst Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Carine Roitfeld: The Russian Connection

Carine Roitfeld: The Russian Connection
By Bernie Rothschild

As we all know, Carine Roitfeld, a typical bourgeois Parisian woman, is proud of her Russian heritage. It comes as no surprise that her father, Jacques Roitfeld, was a Russian émigré to Paris, which was a very typical route for Russians during the Revolution of 1917. Carine celebrates her Russian roots as much as she can. She prefers a vodka shot over a glass of vintage French wine. It is even said that she speaks fluent Russian. And she loves Saint Petersburg. Her style is very Parisian, but it has some darkness and toughness in it, which is the Russian in her. Carine Roitfeld is the perfect definition of the French-Russian woman.

The connection between France and Russia is nothing new. French is the language of the nobility and was the official language of the Imperial Court of Russia which was known as the Romanov Court.  The Russian Empire was a very powerful state and once occupied nearly half of the world like the Balkans, some parts of Asia, the Middle East, and even Alaska. The German born Sophie von Anhalt-Zerbst, or historically known as Catherine the Great, ruler of Russia, was very remarkable. Catherine was a Francophile and believed that everything French was superior. Her court was modeled after that of Louis XIV, the Sun King. Catherine admired the works of many French writers and regularly corresponded with Voltaire.

Though it was Peter the Great who introduced Francophilia to Russia, it was Catherine who made it popular by the use of French influence that extended not just to the language but also to the art and the architecture. Also, the official painter to the French royal court, Élisabeth Vigée-LeBrun, was once exiled in Russia and painted the Romanovs. The Rococo structure of many Russian palaces,  especially the Peterhof Palace, was modeled after the splendid Palais de Versailles. The French and the Russians share a similar aesthetic but the Russian art is mixed with a Germanic influence that has some coldness and darkness to it.

Carine Roitfeld has tried to influence her work with her Russian descent like how the Russians admire the French. Carine was involved in the debut issue of Russian Vogue starring models Kate Moss and Amber Valletta that explored the beauty and the treasures of Russia after the dissolution of the Soviet government. Carine also dedicated the October 2006 issue of Vogue Paris to Russia, the spread titled "Tsarines" was inspired by the Russian Grand Duchess, the wealthiest women in the world during her time. The atmosphere of the photography, especially the white dresses, captures the innocent and angelic style of the daughters of the last Russian emperor Nicholas II.

The second editorial from that issue, "Poupées Russes," evokes the dark days of Russia during the communist rule. Especially with the Givenchy blouse with red embroidery which screams blood and goth. While the models look like angelic Grand Duchesses in "Tsarines," in "Poupées Russes" they look as if they're Russian spies disguised as dolls. I love how Carine "Russianizes" the atmosphere of their style.

Lastly, the editorial "Princesse Natalia" presents the model Natalia Vodianova as if she were a Russian princess especially with the Kokoshnik and a Russian babushka. I love how Carine flirts with balancing the fantasy of the modern and the historical Russian style, especially with the jewel tone colors that make Natalia look like the Russian paintings from the 18th century.

Overall, Russia is really a great country; with its rich heritage, it is truly one of the inspiring places on earth.

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2006 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.