Carine Roitfeld: The Russian Connection

Carine Roitfeld: The Russian Connection
By Bernie Rothschild

As we all know, Carine Roitfeld, a typical bourgeois Parisian woman, is proud of her Russian heritage. It comes as no surprise that her father, Jacques Roitfeld, was a Russian émigré to Paris, which was a very typical route for Russians during the Revolution of 1917. Carine celebrates her Russian roots as much as she can. She prefers a vodka shot over a glass of vintage French wine. It is even said that she speaks fluent Russian. And she loves Saint Petersburg. Her style is very Parisian, but it has some darkness and toughness in it, which is the Russian in her. Carine Roitfeld is the perfect definition of the French-Russian woman.

The connection between France and Russia is nothing new. French is the language of the nobility and was the official language of the Imperial Court of Russia which was known as the Romanov Court.  The Russian Empire was a very powerful state and once occupied nearly half of the world like the Balkans, some parts of Asia, the Middle East, and even Alaska. The German born Sophie von Anhalt-Zerbst, or historically known as Catherine the Great, ruler of Russia, was very remarkable. Catherine was a Francophile and believed that everything French was superior. Her court was modeled after that of Louis XIV, the Sun King. Catherine admired the works of many French writers and regularly corresponded with Voltaire.

Though it was Peter the Great who introduced Francophilia to Russia, it was Catherine who made it popular by the use of French influence that extended not just to the language but also to the art and the architecture. Also, the official painter to the French royal court, Élisabeth Vigée-LeBrun, was once exiled in Russia and painted the Romanovs. The Rococo structure of many Russian palaces,  especially the Peterhof Palace, was modeled after the splendid Palais de Versailles. The French and the Russians share a similar aesthetic but the Russian art is mixed with a Germanic influence that has some coldness and darkness to it.

Carine Roitfeld has tried to influence her work with her Russian descent like how the Russians admire the French. Carine was involved in the debut issue of Russian Vogue starring models Kate Moss and Amber Valletta that explored the beauty and the treasures of Russia after the dissolution of the Soviet government. Carine also dedicated the October 2006 issue of Vogue Paris to Russia, the spread titled "Tsarines" was inspired by the Russian Grand Duchess, the wealthiest women in the world during her time. The atmosphere of the photography, especially the white dresses, captures the innocent and angelic style of the daughters of the last Russian emperor Nicholas II.

The second editorial from that issue, "Poupées Russes," evokes the dark days of Russia during the communist rule. Especially with the Givenchy blouse with red embroidery which screams blood and goth. While the models look like angelic Grand Duchesses in "Tsarines," in "Poupées Russes" they look as if they're Russian spies disguised as dolls. I love how Carine "Russianizes" the atmosphere of their style.

Lastly, the editorial "Princesse Natalia" presents the model Natalia Vodianova as if she were a Russian princess especially with the Kokoshnik and a Russian babushka. I love how Carine flirts with balancing the fantasy of the modern and the historical Russian style, especially with the jewel tone colors that make Natalia look like the Russian paintings from the 18th century.

Overall, Russia is really a great country; with its rich heritage, it is truly one of the inspiring places on earth.

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2006 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

IWTBAR Style Editor: Dara Block

I am thrilled to announce the promotion of Dara Block to style editor for I Want To Be A Roitfeld. Ethereal and earthy all at once, Dara is a true original: visionary, imaginative, inspiring, while at the same time always kind, gracious, modest. It is with gratitude and admiration that we recognize Dara and her work today with the announcement of her new role; in celebration I am delighted that Dara agreed to respond to a few questions about herself, I hope curious readers will enjoy this opportunity to learn more about her intriguing life. Merci mille fois et félicitations, Dara !

Your photographs will be part of a book that Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani is publishing, what can you share with us about the experience?

The whole experience is quite surreal as it all started when I found Franca Sozzani on Instagram. I have admired her vision at Vogue Italia for many years and what I loved about her Instagram page is the way she used it for her followers to display their photography skills. Each month, she chooses a different hashtag like #people, #travel, and #beautyinwonderland, which allows the photographer to take a picture of something that goes with that theme. To be honest, I just submitted some photos for fun and came up with unique ideas along the way. I was completely surprised that she actually liked the photos I was taking. Last month, it got more exciting when Franca Sozzani decided to use four of my photos in a book she put together for the Beauty in Wonderland exhibit, which happened in Milan during fall fashion week. It's really strange how this all happened, but I love how supportive and generous Franca Sozzani has been throughout this whole creative process.

What inspires you about Carine Roitfeld? Do you remember when you first became conscious of her influence?

There is so much that inspires me about Carine Roitfeld... .where do I begin! I think it all started when I saw Kate Moss on the cover of the Vogue Paris February 2001 issue in a sleek blonde haircut and a Balenciaga white dress. I totally thought to myself... something has completely changed and who made Kate Moss look this way. It was such a cutting-edge, chic look that I have never seen before on the cover of Vogue Paris. As I flipped through the issue, I saw an editor's note with Carine Roitfeld looking very much like that Kate Moss cover and I knew something special was happening with the publication. A couple of months later, I read an interview with Carine Roitfeld in the August 2001 "Age Issue" of US Vogue and I very much connected to her style and her frame of thought. She not only had a unique look all her own, but she had a great sense of humor. I liked how she didn't take fashion too seriously. I will never forget when she said how much she loves a fur coat in the summer. She just totally gets it and I love how she understands that style isn't just about wearing a label head to toe, but more about individuality and being yourself.

You practice African Dance regularly, when did you begin your study? What do you typically wear while dancing? You have such a sporty chic approach to life, are there other ways you stay active?

I started African Dance in my teens. My dance class in high school had a special seminar at UCLA and I was completely drawn to it. I loved the movements and the live drummers. African dance is not so much about choreography, but more about expressing emotions as you dance and I love that it is a group effort. It's very tribal and also a great way to stay in shape. Generally, I like fun and energetic forms of exercise like hip-hop and jazz, but I also like yoga and Pilates to build strength. When dancing I always like to be sporty-chic. Typically, I like to wear solid colors... normally, all black or white. I generally like loose pants with a flowy top... together, they both look pretty when you dance and it feels nice on your skin. Calvin Klein makes great workout wear. I tend to wear his pajamas as my dance wear. It's all about soft material when exercising and he is an expert at making comfortable yet stylish active wear.

We'd love to know a few of your favorites in Los Angeles...

Favorite Bookstore: Book Soup on Sunset Boulevard is by far the best bookstore in LA. It's small, quaint, and they have everything, including international magazines... I could spend all day there reading!

Favorite Boutique: To be honest, I don't shop much in LA, but one store I have liked for years is a vintage boutique called Playclothes. I always find such great vintage hats and the prices are not outrageously expensive. This summer I bought a fabulous vintage orange hat from the 1960s. I actually incorporated it in one of my pics that was chosen by Franca Sozzani for the Beauty in Wonderland book. This store will always be special to me as it is where I found my one of a kind vintage Lanvin dress from 1966... so much style in this store and it is one of the best kept secrets in Los Angeles.

Favorite People Watching Spot: This may sound strange, but I love watching Hasidic Jews walk the streets, especially on La Brea. They tend to walk every Saturday in groups and I love the way they wear all black and dress in uniform fashion. It's interesting and inspiring to watch them when they travel in unity. I love minimal and sleek black fashion and I think Hasidic Jewish men surprisingly fit in this category. Probably the best spot in Los Angeles to see noir chic on the streets.

Favorite Museum or Gallery: As far as galleries go I really like the PRISM Gallery on Sunset Boulevard. Every couple of months, they feature a different artist or photographer. I love both not only for the art, but I always find some inspiring sartorial fashion moments. I guess you could say art and fashion do go together. Recently, they held two shows that caught my attention. One for photographer Mario Testino and the other for photographer Daido Moriyama. I love the space and I love how non-pretentious it is. I hate it when art is snooty. I also like the Gagosian Gallery in Beverly Hills. Recently, I saw the Inez & Vinoodh photo exhibit as well as the Cecily Brown show. Two very different shows, but inspiring, nonetheless.

You seek inspiration in the most interesting places, what are the sites you read regularly? Which magazines garner your interest to the point of subscription? Where do you turn when seeking inspiration?

Nowadays, it is so difficult to keep up with all the websites, but I tend to always look at Stockholm Street Style and The Sartorialist for style inspiration. For photo inspiration and keeping up with what is going on in fashion I turn to Vogue.it. The sites are pretty innovative in their own ways and keep me updated on what is chic, without trying too hard. It's more about style than trends with these sites and I really gravitate towards that. I really hate boring cliche blogs that talk about the same celebrities and designers... there is nothing original about that. As far as magazines go, I really like Interview Magazine. Fabien Baron has an amazing eye, I can definitely see that visual aesthetic that he brought to Harper's Bazaar and Vogue Paris. It's all resurrected in the pages of Interview Magazine. I also like CR Fashion Book. As we all know, Carine Roitfeld has such a distinct sense of style and I love that she has fun with fashion. W Magazine is on my list too. The magazine has an amazing team of stylists such as Giovanna Battaglia and Edward Enninful. These two always know how to bring cutting edge style to fashion editorials. I have been really impressed with W Magazine this past year. Lately, I have also been finding inspiration from travel magazines. I love National Geographic... always such great photography and I love how they showcase such non traditional forms of beauty. I was really taken with their February issue on Libya... so inspiring!

If it were your decision, who would you put on the next cover of Vogue Paris? Vogue Italia? CR Fashion Book?

I would love to see some of my favorite 90s supermodels on the cover of Vogue Paris, especially the ones I haven't seen in years like Meghan Douglas, Claudia Mason, Shana Zadrick. These girls were so beautiful in the 90s and I would love to know what they are up to and how they feel now about beauty and glamour. For Vogue Italia and CR Fashion Book, I think for either magazine, it would be interesting if they made a cover on the idea of jolie laide. The term is French and it basically means a good looking ugly woman. I think it's an offbeat beauty concept, but I would love to see women like Angelica Huston, Sofia Coppola, Rossy de Palma, and maybe even model Saskia de Brauw on the cover, to show how you can be beautiful in a non-traditional way. I think that would make for a groundbreaking cover... it's time we celebrate being non-perfectly pretty!

You have an incredible knack for random encounters with artists that you admire, designers, photographers, editors, and so forth, what can you tell us about your recent rendezvous with talent?

Recently, I had the pleasure of meeting photographers Inez & Vinoodh. In July, they had a photo exhibit at the Gagosian Gallery in Beverly Hills and I was so honored to meet them the opening night. Both Inez & Vinoodh are extremely kind and we had an interesting conversation about one of my favorite covers that they photographed for Vogue Paris back in August of 2011. It was so cool to hear their thoughts about that cover and some of their favorite photos inside. It was also such a highlight to take a photo with them and to have them both sign the cover. I am so touched by what they wrote... by far, that was one of my most memorable encounters of 2013.

Which designers do you prefer to wear? Which pieces from the most recent collections caught your eye?

That is always a hard question to answer... but as of now I am liking Yohji Yamamoto... I loved his recent fall 2013 collection, especially those hats. Calvin Klein is always nice too... I like sleek minimalism and I think Francisco Costa really exemplifies that at CK. For drama and drapery I turn to Rick Owens and Haider Ackermann. These two designers get that you can be sexy and stylish by covering up in a sleek leather jacket and a dramatic skirt. I also like Issey Miyake... just because it is so innovative in terms of material, but also completely wearable. My favorite sporty chic designer would have to be Norma Kamali. I recently bought this amazing long black dress with wings and I love how soft and dramatic, it is. That is what I love about her clothes... it can go from sporty in the day to fancy in the night. Normally, I respond to designers who make clothes just like that. In general, it makes me really happy when I can find a sleek black frock... perhaps, that is why my sister and I named our blog Sisters in Black Frocks. For us, black will always be such an inspiring color!

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Dara Block photos © 2013 Dara Block. Other images courtesy of Condé Nast.

Vogue Paris August 2004: China Charm

Vogue Paris August 2004: China Charm
By Jessica Eritou

The childlike, delicate elements to "China Charm" in Vogue Paris provide a tranquil motif throughout the editorial. Shot by Craig McDean and styled by Carine Roitfeld herself, this 2004 editorial features Gemma Ward, one of fashion's most missed models till this day. This was a smart move for Vogue Paris to cast Ward as the model because of her soft, delicate features which complement the shoot effortlessly.

However, the shoot tends to fall flat. There is a fine line between cultural appropriation where instead the art becomes a stereotype but the editorial seems to be quite distant from the title itself. Most of the clothes featured Italian designers like Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana. The poses are somewhat predictable and short-lived, yet the reader gets a sense of what Carine Roitfeld was trying to embellish with this shoot. Each of the selected garments were beautifully crafted clothes, yet too high of contrast to grasp the details of the garment.

The first shot captures Ward in a very delicate, overly feminine position showcasing her figure. Her jacket features an Asian inspired Mandarin collared top with nothing on underneath. This is paired with a dark, lush, restrictive wiggle skirt. Underneath are patterned leggings with something you might see on a teapot.

The second shot looks more like an advertisement for the Sony camera featured throughout “China Charm.” This is a very stunning, powerful shot of Ward, but the composition of the shot and the placement of the camera is all the reader can grasp.

A great and successful shot features Gemma Ward in the black, shiny, sleeveless full-length ball gown. Convincingly, this shot does not showcase any of the themes in this editorial nor the title of it, yet it is so simple and profound. Ward is used as a model without any connotations, just simply for fashion.

Another highlight in this shoot was of Ward looking stunning in all red, paired with a beautiful T-strap sandal. There is a story behind this shot, this work now has the reader intrigued as to what is going on due to her body language and pose. Her lavender hair is in harmony with her, perhaps, painted on socks, or hosiery. This is complementary with the hue of the red fur cropped cape and the body-con silk dress. Although each garment is the same hue, the textures contrast wonderfully for this shot.

Gemma Ward is featured in a gorgeous Alexander McQueen dress which artistically combines in every element from the minimalist background she is shot against, to her lavender streaked hair, to the flowers featured on the dress. The Sony camera appears again but used quietly as an accessory and not in the foreground this time. The reader is able to grasp the simplicity and the delicacy of Gemma Ward and the dress with tranquility.

Perhaps the best shot is a close up of Ward in a textured jacket featured a side zipper, holding on to the camera, while she has a simple hair accessory at the top of her crown of hair. There is such a strong emotional sense the viewer can get from this shot. Finally, there is a story to be said. We wonder what is she thinking, why is she positioned that way.

Perhaps simplicity and purity was the goal to this shoot, but overall could have gone much further with more depth to the storyline behind each photograph. Only a select few images grasp the reader's attention as to what is going on in the model's head or the shot itself. The clothing selected is beautiful, but nonetheless I wish Roitfeld and McDean pushed much harder for this editorial. Instead, it leaves a relatively safe feeling, knowing how much more it could have been with their potential.

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Vogue Paris editorial image © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Vogue Paris Translation: Editorial, August 2004

As we glance back to the August 2004 issue of Vogue Paris, here is my translation from French to English of the editorial written by Carine Roitfeld. How I adore her turn of phrase, so like her images, at once charming and provocative.

"Personne n'a à me dire ce que je dois porter", a coutume de dire Madonna. Sans vouloir offenser la "pop queen", en couverture de ce numéro et dont la série de concerts à Paris s'annonce d'emblée comme l'événement de la rentrée, c'est ce que nous avons décidé de faire ce mois-ci : ne pas vous laisser le choix et vous mettre en présence des total looks les plus marquants de l'automne-hiver. Un Vogue spécial mode donc, doublé d'un supplément défilés (ci-dessus, Dior par John Galliano), imaginé non pas comme une "bible de diktats", mais comme un décapsuleur d'envies. Envies de léopard, de noir fluide, d'une silhouette graphique et de voluptueuses audaces, entre modernité et tradition, symptôme d'une saison "Asie-mutée". La vitalité d'un rythme de lignes franches que l'on retrouve dans l'architecture japonaise, chez ses "fabuleux sorciers" (Shin Takamatsu, Takashi Yamagushi, Tokyo Ito...) dont le travail est un témoignage à l'air libre de la relation essentielle qui existe entre la légèreté et la modernité.

"Nobody has to tell me what to wear," Madonna often says. No offense to the "pop queen" — on the cover of this issue and whose series of concerts in Paris upon being announced were immediately the event of the season — that is exactly what we decided to do this month: give you no choice and put you in the presence of the most striking total looks of the fall-winter styles. A Vogue fashion special therefore, bundled with a supplement to the shows (above, Dior by John Galliano), imagined not as a "Bible of dictates," but as a wish list opener. Cravings for leopard, for fluid black, for a graphic silhouette and for sensuous audacity, between modernity and tradition, a symptom of the "Asia-mutated" season. The vitality of the rhythm of clean lines found in Japanese architecture, with its "fabulous sorcerers" (Shin Takamatsu, Takashi Yamaguchi, Tokyo Ito...) whose work is a testament in the open air to the essential relationship which exists between lightness and modernity.

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Vogue Paris editorial image © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Vogue Paris August 2004: Madonna

Vogue Paris August 2004: Madonna
By Dara Block

It is not very common for Vogue Paris to feature a major celebrity on the cover so when the magazine decided to have Madonna on its August 2004 cover I definitely took notice. Leave it to Vogue Paris to make such a smart and intriguing cover image with one of the world's most renowned entertainers. I love that it is a close-up of Madonna with her hair covering her face, rather than an obvious shot of which, we are always used to seeing of The Material Girl. Plus, I love the way those words are written across the cover... it simply says exclusif Madonna dans les yeux, which beautifully translates as... through Madonna's eyes. So much mystery is conveyed and I appreciate that the words correspond so alluringly to the image. This cover truly has Carine Roitfeld incognito-chic written all over it, so with all that said let's take a detailed look inside this brilliant Madonna and Steven Klein collaboration.

The editorial is an intriguing behind-the-scenes look at Madonna's 2004 Re-Invention Tour. In case you do not remember, the Re-Invention Tour was her sixth concert tour to support her ninth studio album entitled American Life. Madonna was inspired to create the tour after taking part in an art installation called X-STaTIc PRO-Cess, directed by photographer Steven Klein. You can actually see many of the images featured in the April 2003 issue of W Magazine. Madonna is photographed in various reincarnations of her many spiritual practices... including a yogi prophet. Madonna truly takes her yoga practice to such an artistic level in this editorial... do check out these photos if you have never seen this W Magazine layout, very inspiring!

I actually saw her Re-Invention Tour back in 2004 and I loved how the concert was divided into five segments..... French Baroque Marie Antoinette Revival, Military Army, Circus Cabaret, and Acoustic and Scottish Tribal. The costumes were exquisitely designed by Arianne Phillips all based on the idea of re-invention and change. Madonna is well-known for her transformations so to see these looks all assembled together was quite the visual treat!

I think it is important to note that around this time the US was sending troops to Iraq and Afghanistan and Madonna made sure to get out a political message against George W. Bush. I don't think she wanted to anger her fans, but I think she was more about enlightening and educating her fans about revising our political system. It is clear that this concert was not just about performance, but also about making a social and political change.

Personally, one of my favorite parts of the show was the military segment. There was so much substance with noir military style that I cannot forget and still to this day I stand by her American Life album, even though critics hated it. This was just one of the sections of the show and I loved that we got to see all sides of Madonna.

Now, let's get back to the editorial! I think the opening image is quite epic and I love seeing Madonna in double symmetry. It looks like she is wearing a butterfly lace mask and I can't help but take notice of that look that she is giving to the camera. Once again, we see Madonna in full incognito chic mode, which is definitely the way I like seeing her..... mysteriously glam and ready to turn heads!

Next, we see Madonna dancing up a storm. This is what I love about her, she always knows how to put on a show. I appreciate this moment of her in full dance mode with that head set on. Very few woman can get away with a white tank top, a belt, and fishnet stockings, but I think this photo clearly shows why she is The Queen of Pop.

By far, this is my favorite image from the editorial. Again, we see Madonna in double symmetry, but this time there is a kaleidoscope effect added in. I love that relaxed expression on her face and how she almost looks like a fluttering butterfly. This is a very ethereal image and I like how calming it looks. This photo very much represents the spiritual side of Madonna... one of her best phases.

Following the Madonna butterfly image we get to see a rare moment of Madonna backstage with her son, Rocco. Madonna is wearing a Scottish kilt and I remember her wearing this ensemble in the last part of the show. Only Madonna could make a Scottish kilt look so chic and practical... really such amazing styling on this outfit. I also love all those extra bright colors blended in that background. Steven Klein certainly added a sci-fi element to this sentimental moment between Madonna and her son.

Next, we see a noir moment of Madonna singing on-stage with a guitar and all dressed up in a black bespoke Stella McCartney suit. I remember this portion of the show very well. Madonna spoke to the audience about promoting peace and helping others who are less fortunate, especially in countries like Africa. She also sang a version of John Lennon's "Imagine" to promote her thoughts on living in a world of peace. I liked seeing this side of Madonna.... it felt more real, maybe even a bit melancholy, but I applaud her for always speaking her mind about what she feels the world needs more of.

We next see Madonna in full diva pose. I love the way she looks here in that black bodysuit and the way her dancers are looking up at her. She is by the far the ultimate pop diva and she truly shows that in this photo. When I look at this image I automatically think strike a pose, vogue.... no wonder why she made this cover!

The final image of Madonna is a close up shot of her in full concentration mode during the middle of her concert tour. I love all the dynamic colors that Steven Klein added to this image and it really shows just how innovative Madonna really is. She manages to do it all... performer, artist, mother, thinker, and humanitarian. There is no stop to Madonna and as the years go on I find her more interesting. I love the way Vogue Paris chose to showcase her tour and all the thought and imagination that Madonna and her creative team put into this concert. Steven Klein also added an edgy and seductive mix to this editorial with his sharp eye. I was really happy that I got to see this show in real life and I think this particular issue of Vogue Paris very much enhances the concert experience.

While normally I don't like seeing celebrities on the cover of Vogue Paris I think we can make an exception for Madonna. It's quite lovely to see a Carine Roitfeld version of Madonna on the cover as well as a unique behind-the-scenes look of her Re-Invention Tour. Madonna will always be so far ahead of the game in terms of fashion and style, so it is no surprise why she made the cover of this unforgettable issue. Brava, CR for honoring Madonna in that Vogue Paris way we all know and love!

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2004 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.